Over sixty years later, Mod fashion is as sharp as it’s ever been. Wearable, everyday rebellion: Mod was a statement long before it became a look. And women were more than just a footnote in that statement.

The Mods rebelled against their parents' austere, conservative values, and, arguably, the girls rebelled the hardest.

Here’s how the Mod girl shaped the way we dress today, and which pieces from her era are still iconic.

The History of the Mod Girl

Mod fashion grew out of post-war Britain, hot on the heels of food and fabric rationing, and severe financial squeezes. There was austerity; then, all of a sudden, the kids had money. With their own jobs, incomes and tastes, Mods set out in search of something different from their parents.

For young women, that certainly meant more than just style. For them, the Mod movement was about rebelling against the domestic ideals they had seen play out their entire lives. That meant a firm no to their mother’s clothes and to her ideas of what a proper young lady should be.

Influenced by jazz, Eurocentric flair, and sharp tailoring, early Mod girls dressed more androgynously, borrowing heavily from the menswear of the time rather than traditional feminine styles. Clean lines and close-cut hair were what set Mod girls apart, a challenge against how women should dress.

Women Mods: 60s Icons

Mary Quant

You simply can’t talk about Mod style without mentioning the legend that is Mary Quant. Famous for popularising the A-line skirt, so named for its triangular silhouette, narrow at the waist and wide at the hem, Mary Quant was also known for her daring use of bold new colours and fabrics, and for helping make the mini-skirt a symbol of the era.

As Mary herself has said, “I liked my skirts short because I wanted to run and catch the bus to get to work.” But Quant didn’t just make style functional; she also made it accessible. Her prices were more affordable than those of other fashion houses, putting style in reach of working-class women.

Twiggy

Then there’s Twiggy, real name Lesley Lawson (née Hornby), so nicknamed for her iconic slender frame. With her boyish, wide-eyed look, Twiggy came to be seen as a face of the Mod movement, moving the look from the street to high fashion.

With her cropped hair, striking makeup and slight frame, Twiggy continued the work of early Mod girls, subverting what a fashionable woman was supposed to look like. Like Quant, Twiggy rose from a working-class background to become an influential figure in high fashion. 

Mod Fashion vs Modern Trends

“People call things vulgar when they are new to them,” explains Quant. “When they become old, they become good taste.” She was right about that. Those Mod styles she pioneered, that the establishment so hated, are now revered. 

But beyond fashion, Mod style also changed society. Rather than the upper class deciding what’s good, Mods put youth in the driving seat. Personal style also became less tied to class, meaning anyone could now look sharp and practical every day.

And that appetite for wearable, unpretentious style still exists now. We just don’t call it Mod anymore.

Retro Fashion for Ladies: Mod Essentials Worth Investing in

Here are three pieces from the Mod era that have earned a permanent place in every wardrobe.

Shirts

Sharp, with clean lines and endlessly versatile, the Mod shirt is as wearable now as it was in the 60s. Relco London’s shirts are made from high-quality fabrics and are designed to hold their shape and quality throughout heavy use. Tuck them into a pair of Sta-Prest trousers or a tonic skirt. Or, if you’re going for something casual, wear them unbuttoned over a T-shirt. There are few pieces that work as hard as our shirts.

Skirts

Structured, practical, and with an iconic silhouette, Tonic skirts are a Mod classic. Our skirts come in classic colourways, checks, and tartans, depending on exactly how Mod you’re feeling. From subtle nods to full-on 60s statements, our skirts are made to the high standard of the rest of Relco’s range.

Jackets

Tailored and timeless, Mod jackets still cut the sharp silhouette that the movement was built on. Our women’s Harrington Jackets are made to the same standard of British craftsmanship that defined the originals.

Wearing Mod Fashion Today

Dressing Mod today doesn’t mean digging out an old A-line dress; it can be as subtle as you want it to be. At Relco, we put wearability first. Sharp, comfortable pieces that don’t compromise on style or functionality. We make proper clobber that’s as good now as it was in the 60s. 

As Quant says, “The fashionable woman wears clothes. The clothes don't wear her.“ At Relco, we make clothes you want to wear. See the full Relco range here.

Hasn’t what we listened to always influenced what we wear? The history of music isn’t just spelt out on record shelves and playlists, it’s hanging in the wardrobes and lying on the bedroom floor of gig-goers up and down the UK. Music and style are linked, always have been, always will be.

The Music Scene and Fashion, Forever Linked

What you wear has always told other people what you listen to. The Teddy Boys, one of Britain's earliest post-war youth subcultures, were already wearing drape jackets and drainpipe trousers when rock 'n' roll gave the look its soundtrack. The Rockers who followed swapped tight tailoring for denim and leather, with the likes of Little Richard providing the soundtrack. 

Then, almost out of nowhere, came glam rock, with Ziggy Stardust, the rock messiah, completely changing what style meant. However, Bowie was by no means the last artist to rip up the rule book; the punks of the late '70s can attest to that. In fact, across the entire history of music and fashion, what’s in and what’s out has swung back and forth like a metronome. Every music scene left a little something behind, but largely they all passed on.

And while they do say that the only permanent thing is impermanence, at Relco, we respectfully disagree. Out of all the music-inspired styles, there’s one that’s stood the test of time. Hard-wearing, working-class Mod fashion, that’s as sharp now as it’s always been.

A Mod’s Style Was a Way of Life

Young, working-class Londoners with jobs and money of their own. The children of post-war austerity spent their hard-earned pay dressing above what was expected of them. And what they wore was so much more than a costume; it was a statement against what the generation before them thought young working-class men should look like. The sharp suits and clean lines of Italian tailoring found a new home on Soho’s dance floors. Young people took pride in what they wore and put effort into looking effortless.

The Who became one of the bands most closely associated with Mod culture. Their early image reflected the scene's sharp tailoring and clean silhouettes, helping cement the connection between Mod music and fashion for generations that followed. From the tailored suits down to the Sta Prest trousers, mods looked sharp enough for a big night out. And the amazing thing was, mods knew they could throw in a button-down shirt and still look smart enough for work the next morning.

A Different Kind of Sharp: Skinheads and Ska 

By the late ‘60s, elements of Mod culture were evolving into a harder, more working-class look. Early skinhead style grew from that shift, while drawing heavily on Jamaican music and Rude Boy fashion.

Ska and rocksteady arrived with the Jamaican diaspora, as well as the Rude Boy aesthetic. Clean tailoring, cropped trousers and well-polished shoes. The Rude Boys and Mods both saw dressing well as a sign of self-respect. Both favoured clothes that were smart, hard-wearing and easy to move in.

The 2 Tone movement picked the whole thing up again in the late ‘70s and early ‘80s. And The Specials and Madness put ska, rude boy tailoring and skinhead style back on Top of the Pops. The new generation dressed accordingly.

Why the Look Never Left

That connection between music and the mod’s style of the era is a big reason why the look still feels distinctive today. And every time British music looks back for inspiration, it ends up pulling from the same wardrobe. Britpop put a ‘90s spin on Mod style, borrowing from terrace culture and the football casual scene, where elements of Mod-influenced British style had found another home.

The Mods tried to bring together practical, versatile styles that could survive a night out and still look sharp enough for the office the next day. They aimed for a balance of comfort, style and utility, and they actually found it.

How to Dress Mod Today

Relax, you don’t need to buy a Vespa (although you can if you really want to commit), all you need are a few pieces of proper clobber to bring classic mod style into your wardrobe.

A Harrington jacket can elevate any outfit, and looks as natural draped over the back of an office chair as it does in the line outside a gig. When the weather turns, a parka is the obvious choice for fending off the cold without stooping to a puffer jacket.

For the legs, tonic or two-tone trousers can add a bit of shine, while some tartan trousers can really help you stand out in a crowd.

The Music’s Changed Again, But the Clothes Are Still Cool

Genres come and go, the songs on the radio change (some people get rid of their radios), but the clothes remain. What was cool in the ‘60s is cool now, and sharp, hard-wearing clothes still look good on a Friday night. That's the whole point of Mod and skinhead style, and it's why Relco's been making it since 1964.

Ready to build the look? Browse our full collection and see what sixty years of British music has left in the wardrobe.

Two men can wear the same outfit, and one of them looks twice as expensive. The difference is what the cloth's doing when you get closer to it, and it's the thing most people never think about when they're buying.

Why Texture Does More Than Colour Ever Will

Texture's what stops a wardrobe from looking like a uniform, and it works even when you've kept everything to two or three shades. A flecked jumper over a plain shirt feels richer than a bright jumper over the same shirt, and it'll go with far more of what you already own.

There's a practical bit too. Textured cloth hides creases, and smooth cotton shows every fold from the train seat, whereas a weave with any depth to it forgives you completely.

What Is Tonic Fabric, and Why Does It Change Colour?

This is the one everyone asks about.

Tonic is a two-tone cloth, usually a wool-and-mohair blend, woven with one colour running one way and a second colour running the other way. Look at it straight on, and you get one shade. Move, or let the light hit it from the side, and you get the other. Blue turns green. Burgundy turns gold.

Mods went mad for it in the mid-60s for exactly that reason. A tonic suit under the lights in a club looked like nothing else in the room. It's still the most dapper thing you can put on, and it needs no pattern at all to do it.

Worth knowing: tonic doesn't like heat. Keep the iron low and use a cloth between.

Houndstooth vs Dogtooth: What's the Difference?

Honestly? Not much, and half the trade uses them interchangeably.

Both describe the same broken check, that jagged four-pointed shape that looks a bit like a tooth. The difference is scale. 

Dogtooth is the smaller version you'd wear as a shirt or a slim pair of trousers. Houndstooth is the larger, bolder version that works better on a jacket. There's a third size called puppytooth, which is smaller again and reads almost as a solid from across a room.

Dogtooth is the British term. Houndstooth's the American one. Which is why you'll see the same jacket listed two different ways depending on who's selling it.

Related and worth a look while you're there is the Prince of Wales check, which layers a fine check over a larger one.

Types of Tweed Worth Knowing

Tweed is often treated as a single fabric when it's a whole category, and knowing the difference helps you avoid buying the wrong weight.

• Herringbone is the broken zigzag, the most recognisable of the lot. It's the safest tweed to start with because the pattern's small enough to behave like a plain colour at any distance.

• Barleycorn has a tiny speckled kernel effect. Warmer-looking than herringbone, and better in browns and rusts than in greys.

• Flecked tweed carries little dots of contrasting colour spun through the yarn. That's where tweed gets its reputation for looking alive rather than flat.

• Estate check and overcheck put a bold windowpane over a base weave. Loud and brilliant on a jacket.

Anything above 14oz is a winter fabric, and you'll cook in it indoors. Lighter tweeds work year-round in this country, which is most of the year, given how the weather behaves.

Knits Are Texture You Can Feel

Weave is a texture you look at. Knitwear is a texture you notice with your hands, and it does more for an outfit than its woven equivalent. Cable knits the obvious one: all rope and depth. Waffle knit gives you a grid that catches shadows. Ribbed knitting reads almost like vertical stripes and has the useful side effect of making you look taller.

Then there's pique, which is what a proper knitted polo is made from. That fine waffle texture is why a pique polo looks smart and a plain jersey one looks like a T-shirt with a collar.

A textured-knit tank top over a plain shirt is the cheapest way to add flair to an outfit you already own. Cardigans do the same job with more coverage.

Getting Two Textures in One Outfit

The rule's simpler than people make it out to be. Vary the scale.

A big weave wants a small one next to it. Estate check tweed over a fine gauge knit works. Estate check tweed over cable knit is two loud things arguing, and neither wins.

The same goes for the pattern. Dogtooth trousers with a textured but plain-coloured shirt is right. Dogtooth trousers with a paisley shirt is a lot, and you'd need to be very confident to pull it off.

One coat won't get you through a British spring. Buy the warmest thing in the shop, and you'll be carrying it under your arm by eleven in the morning, sweating into a T-shirt, wondering why you even bothered.

The answer isn't a better coat. It's more layers, thinner ones, and knowing the order they go in.

Why One Big Coat Fails Here

British weather doesn't do days. It does hours. You'll get a proper cold start, a mild middle, wind off nowhere by three, and drizzle that can't commit to being rain.

A single heavy garment gives you one setting. On or off. Nothing in between.

Retro layers solve this because 60s menswear was built for exactly this climate. Nobody in 1965 owned a technical shell. They owned a shirt, something knitted, and a jacket, and they adjusted by taking bits off.

How to Layer Clothing Without Looking Twice Your Size

Three rules you must follow. 

• Thin next to your skin. Whatever's touching you should be the lightest thing you own. A T-shirt or a short-sleeve shirt works. Bulk here ruins everything above it.

• The middle does the heat. This is where your warmth actually lives, and it's the bit most people skip because they've spent all their money on the coat.

• The outer layer takes the wind and water. That's its job. It doesn't need to be thick.

Get the order wrong, and you end up with a puffy silhouette that fights every retro cut in your wardrobe. These jackets were designed to be slim. Stuff a hoodie under a Harrington, and you'll rip the yoke.

Start With the Shirt (Not the Coat)

Where to start? Easy.

• A long-sleeve button-down is the most useful thing you can own for this climate. It works on its own in June. It works under knitwear in October. Roll up the sleeves, and it works in a heatwave.

• Polo shirts do a similar job with less formality, and they layer better than a T-shirt because the collar gives you something at the neck when the wind picks up.

Tuck it in. Always. An untucked shirt under a waist-length jacket bunches at the hem, and you'll spend the day pulling at it.

Knitwear Is the Layer Doing the Work

Here's where most wardrobes fall flat on their face:

• A tank top over a button-down is the single most underrated bit of British layering. It warms your core, leaves your arms free, and adds no bulk at all under a jacket. Mods figured this out decades before anyone was talking about thermal regulation.

• Jumpers are the obvious step up. Fine gauge, not chunky, because chunky knitwear and a slim jacket don't get along.

• Cardigans win on flexibility. You can undo one without taking it off, which sounds trivial until you're on a train that's decided to be 24 degrees in February.

Browse the full knitwear range if you're building this bit from scratch.

Best Jackets for British Weather, Compared

Four retro outer layers, and they're not interchangeable.

The Thing Everyone Gets Wrong

Alright. So trousers.

You'll layer your top half beautifully and then wear the same thin jeans in December that you wore in July. Sta-Prest in a heavier weight, or something in tweed if you're going properly warm, changes more than another jumper will.

The other mistake is buying everything in the same weight, so you end up with four medium jackets and nothing for either extreme.

Building It in the Right Order

If you're starting from nothing, buy a Harrington first. Then two button-downs. Then a tank top and a fine-gauge jumper, which together will cover you from about March to November. The parka comes later, when winter arrives, and you've realised you need it.

Sizing matters more when you're layering, so have a look at the size guide before you order. A jacket that fits over a T-shirt won't always fit over a jumper, and going up a size on the outer layer is usually the right call.

Have a proper look through Relco's jackets and knitwear and build the middle of your wardrobe first. The coat can wait.

Mod style was built for every moment. It just happens to go hardest on a Friday.

The kind of Friday that moves quickly from your house to your job, to the pub and beyond, wherever the night takes you, usually somewhere with music and a line outside the door.

That’s the whole point of the Mod look. It’s sharp enough for the day and adaptable enough for the night. And at Relco, we make the Mod look tough enough to survive both, all while keeping that clean-cut fashion we know you love.

Mod fashion never left the pubs and clubs because that’s where it was born. It did, however, get an office job, but don’t worry, it looks cool there, too.

Music and Mods: Which Came First?

Mod fashion and music grew up together. And like a pair of siblings, nicking each other’s style and giving back something slightly different, neither one really makes sense on its own.

As the sound changed, so did the style

As the music shifted from 50s jazz to 60s rock and R&B, and then to the more confrontational sound of the 70s and 80s, the clothes followed. We moved from pure, clean tailoring to something a little rougher, with a little more youthful edge.

The bands that sharpened the look

The Who and The Kinks, all sharp suits and restless energy, famously defined the 60s Mod scene in London. The Jam continued to move the needle in the 70s, bringing Mod style to a new generation without losing what made it special.

How did the Mods influence the musicians?

In the 60s, influence swung both ways; the Beatles themselves shopped on Carnaby Street and Cecil Gee.

The lines between the fan and the performer became even more blurred when the Gold Brothers, who ran the famous men's clothing shop, Lord John, hired the Yardbirds and The Small Faces to play outside. When this happened, the shopfront really became part of the music scene. 

What Makes Mod & Retro Fashion so Adaptable?

Mod fashion works on the many levels it does for three big reasons: it balances style and substance, it’s born of the working class, and it’s just so simple.

The clothes looked good and lasted, meaning pieces could be cherished for longer; fashion was slower back in the day. The working-class roots were about keeping pieces practical; they had to justify their existence through everyday use, to look good and work in the real world. As for simplicity, clean lines and sharper styles are exactly what let a Mod outfit move between settings so seamlessly.

Mod Fashion Staples

Shirts

Mod Favourites: Polos, paisley, button-down, checks

A shirt that doesn’t shout travels well from function to function. Crisp button-downs, with subtle patterns, sit nicely at the desk or at the pub. Bolder prints, like paisley, have their place after 5, though with enough confidence, you can wear one on the job.

Trousers

Mod Favourites: Sta Prest, tartan and two-tone

These are the Mod trouser staples, but remember, it’s as much about the fit as it is the style. A slim, tailored cut helps trousers to look sharp and move properly, in the office or on the dance floor.

Jackets

Mod Favourites: Harringtons, bombers, parkas and blazers

Jackets are all about layering. A blazer can help you dress up any outfit, a Harrington helps you strip things back at the pub, and a parka protects your clobber when you find yourself on the back of a moped.

Accessories

Mod favourites: Braces, ties and badges

Small adjustments can do some real heavy lifting. Loosening a tie, undoing a top button or pinning a badge can make a world of difference to your outfit, without sacrificing that sharp style.

One Mod Outfit, 3 Functions

Let's keep it simple: navy Sta Prest trousers, a short-sleeve button-down, a tie and a Harrington Jacket. That’s what you’ve got on this Friday. Here’s how it moves through the day.

At work

Here, the tie is done up, the jacket’s on, and the shirt is tucked. You look clean, sharp and professional, able to hold your own anywhere from the office to the shop floor.

The pub

At your local after work, the tie is loosened but still on, a button comes undone, and your jacket’s over your arm. You are ready for that first, well-deserved pint.

The gig

It’s time to look for music now. The tie’s off, sleeves are rolled a little, and your jacket’s got your back against the night air. 

What was sharp at 9 am is still good at 9 pm. Every element of your outfit has moved with you throughout the day, and with minimal adjustments, you’ve stayed looking fresh.

The After-Dark Difference

So, what changes? Nothing really. It’s just that fabrics that read as polished in the day, hold an edge under gig lighting and pub glow. What stays the same is comfort and sharpness. 

Comfort is always there because the Mod outfit never stops being wearable, no matter where the day takes you. That sharpness can survive a loosened tie, an undone button, and however many pints you have at the pub, because Relco’s Mod classics hold their shape. Check out our full range today.

The monkey jacket's spent sixty years playing second fiddle to the Harrington, and that's a bit daft when you put the two side by side. Ask anyone what a mod wore on his scooter in 1966, and you'll hear "Harrington" every time. 

Fair enough, they were everywhere. But the monkey jacket was on those same scooters.

What's a Monkey Jacket, Then?

Short, boxy, zip straight up the front, and cut to stop dead at your waist. That's your monkey jacket. You've got ribbed knit at the cuffs and hem, and a ribbed band collar where a Harrington would give you a turn-up.

Around the front, you'll find two slash pockets. Inside, there's an easy-access pocket that, back in the day, held the smokes. The fabric's usually a cotton blend, light as anything, either unlined or barely lined at all.

That tells you what the jacket's for. It was never meant to be a winter coat. It's a layer for spring, for autumn, and for those evenings when the British weather can't make up its mind. Some shops call it a bowling jacket. Others go with the mod bomber. 

Where the Monkey Jacket Origin Story Really Starts

Here's the bit most people don't know. The name's a good hundred years older than the mods. A monkey jacket was what sailors wore in the 1800s. Short, close-fitting, cut without tails, so nothing snagged on the rigging when a lad went up the mast.

As for why it got called that, the popular version points at the organ grinder's monkey and his little tail-less jacket. Whether that's gospel or just a good yarn, it's stuck for two centuries. The sailors themselves had a blunter name for it: Bum-freezer.

The jacket that arrived on Carnaby Street sailed over from America, out of the Ivy League campuses and the bowling alleys, where a short zip jacket with knitted trim was nothing more exciting than ordinary sportswear. 

Then British teenagers clocked it in the early 60s and made it their own.

Mods went for it because it looked dapper on a scooter. Skinheads picked it up a few years later for much the same reason.

Monkey Jacket vs Harrington: Which One's Your Go-To?

Both are short. Both zip. That's about where it stops.

Your Harrington has been in production since 1937, christened in the mid-60s by John Simons after a character from Peyton Place. It's got a pointed collar you can turn up when it's blowing, an umbrella yoke across the back to shift the rain, slanted flap pockets, and that Fraser tartan lining everyone recognises.

The monkey jacket gives you none of that. No collar worth the name, no rain defence, no lining to flash at anyone. What it's got instead is colour, and loads of it. The tipping on a monkey jacket does more visual work than anything on a Harrington, which is exactly why it photographs well (and exactly why the purists never took it seriously).

How to Wear a Monkey Jacket

The zip determines the whole thing. Done up to the throat, you're in mod territory. Half open over a polo, it turns casual and easy. Left hanging wide with the ribbing loose at the hem, it goes scruffy in a way the cut doesn't want, so pick one of the first two.

Underneath, keep it tucked and keep it retro: a button-down shirt with a decent collar roll is classic. What'll ruin it is a hoodie.

Trousers want to be flat and straight: Sta-Prest, two-tone tonic, or plain straight-leg denim with a turn-up on the bottom. The jacket's already short and square, so anything baggy below the belt throws off your proportions. A high rise helps enormously here. Go low, and you'll leave a gap between the hem and the waistband that nobody wants to look at.

Footwear’s  where you set the register. Loafers or Chelsea boots smarten up the whole outfit. Monkey boots or a pair of Docs drag it towards the terraces, which is a proper look if that's your thing. Clean canvas trainers do a job in summer, though they'll knock the outfit down a peg, so keep them away from your tonic.

On fit, short is the entire point. The hem should be at your waistband or just above it, with the ribbing gripping rather than straining. If the body's covering your belt, you've bought an MA-1 bomber by mistake. Sleeves should finish at the wrist bone, with the cuff lying flat, never bunched halfway up your forearm.

Colour's the last one. If you're buying your first one, navy or black will go with everything you already own. Sky blue and stone are for people who've already done the sensible colours.

Final Thoughts on the Monkey Jacket

Sixty years of British subculture, a naval name older than that, and a shape that's barely changed since the scooters were new. Get the length right, get the zip right, and it'll do more for an outfit than half the coats in your wardrobe.

Have a look through Relco's monkey jackets and pick the colourway that suits your clobber.

The Story Behind Two-Tone Clothing in British Subculture

There’s a reason tonic suits still turn heads, 60 years after they first hit Carnaby Street. Two-tone dressing is more than just a colourway; it’s one of the most enduring and alluring stylistic statements to emerge from British youth culture. Today, it remains as sharp as the Mods who first claimed it.

What is Two-Tone Dressing?

Two-tone, or tonic, cloth is woven from two different-coloured threads, usually a blend of mohair and wool. Tonic became iconic because of the way the fabric shifts between shades as the wearer moves and the angle of the light changes.

Tonik cloth, as it was originally known, was created in the late 1950s by the French-British fashion house, Dormeuil. The Mohair fabric comes from the Angora goat, and on its own, it was too expensive and uncomfortable to wear. It was eventually mixed with wool to create what we now know as Tonic cloth. Wool adds a touch of softness, while the mohair provides the sheen. And together, they make a fabric with plenty of natural lustre, crease resistance, and a tendency to look like two colours at once.

This effect is what sold the fabric. Move your arm on the dance floor, and the colour of your suit changes. Stand still, the colour settles into a single, deeper colour. Whether you’re standing under club lighting or out on the street, that shimmer is difficult to miss, making tonic suits the standout choice for a generation that wanted to be seen.

Why the Mods Loved Tonic Trousers and Jackets

The first Mods were young, working-class Londoners, messengers, apprentices and office juniors, the first post-war generation to earn a wage of their own. At a time when nothing in fashion was made for them, they saved up and dressed up above their class as a statement of rebellious ambition. Despite the Mod image of ‘effortless cool’, it took a lot of work to look the way they did.

Tonic cloth, with its sheen and its shimmer, stood out to them more than anything else on the rail. It looked bold, daring, and on a packed dancefloor, it was a sure-fire way to be seen and photographed like nothing else in the room. Mod women were also making statements, in tonic skirts that carried that same sharp perception as the men in their suits.

Mohair tailoring had made its home in Savile Row for a few years by the 60s. What the Mods did was take an established, relatively upper-crust fabric and make it their own. Leaning hard into Italian and French influences, narrow lapels and slim European silhouettes, that stood apart from the British mainstream. Two-tone was a borrowed taste, worn on a minimum wage and cut in a style no one else in the country expected.

Beyond the style, the Mods loved two-tone fabric for the same reason they loved Sta Prest trousers. It was crease-resistant, breathable, and didn’t slow the Mods down on the dance floor. A suit that survived hours out on the town and still looked good at 3am was remarkable. Tonic could take what the Mods threw at it.

How Two-Tone Moved Beyond Mod Outfits

Style doesn’t sit still for long, and tonic quickly worked its way through the suedeheads and skinheads who followed the Mods, with the latter pairing tonic trousers with hard-wearing Sherman shirts and brouges.

Around the same time, the Jamaican diaspora and rude boy look arrived on the streets of England. Influenced by ska and rocksteady, and rocking the same clean lines and sharp tailoring as the Mods, this new group dressed well for the same reason: smart tailoring as a sign of ambition and self-respect.

This thread was pulled again in the 1970s when the aptly named 2-tone movement revived rude boy style, pushing tonic suits back into the mainstream, along with the Mod and skinhead influences.

Why the Look Still Works

Tonic hasn’t changed, nor has the confidence needed to style it properly. If you’re wondering how this shimmering 60s miracle fabric fits into your wardrobe, here are a few tips.

For a casual, suedehead-leaning look, pair tonic trousers with a retro shirt and loafers, no jacket needed. Or if you want to dress it up, throw on a polo or add a Harrington jacket for an easy, weekend-ready take.

A tonic skirt pairs naturally with flat shoes and a simple top, in keeping with Mod womenswear's stripped-back, no-fuss approach. Browse the full women's vintage collection for clothing with the same sharp, minimal styling.

Two-tone fabric occupies this rare middle ground. Dressier than casualwear, but never stiff or corporate, and with a shimmer that keeps it from ever reading as boring. As sharp and bold as the rest of the Mods’ style. 

Ready to build the look? Shop the full Relco collection and see what sixty years of Mod style still has to offer.

Check, tartan, and all the big heritage patterns are huge parts of fashion history, each with its own style and traditions. 

More commonly associated with punks of the 70s than mods of the 60s, tartan was nevertheless a key element of mod style, frequently finding itself in the lining of jackets and on A-line skirts. Checks are the more understated of the two; we usually see them in smart suits and interior fabrics.

Mods loved tartan for the bold colours, its non-conformist style and the straight lines that came to epitomise so many of their clothing choices. Like the mod movement itself, tartan is loud. But how do you wear something that loud, casually? Checks can be a little more understated, striking more so in pattern than colour, but they can still come off as corny if not styled right.

Knowing where tartan and checks fit and how to style around them, as well as their history, can help you take your checks out on the town without looking like Ronald McDonald or a punk in Camden Lock.

The Mods And Heritage Patterns

We know the mods liked looking different. And unless you’re a tourist in Edinburgh, wearing checks and tartan is a sure-fire way to stand out. Mods didn’t fancy their parents' conservative style, so they branched out into more daring patterns. Checks and tartans allowed mods to look bold while retaining an air of sophistication.

Unlike the punks that followed, mods wore tartan sparingly, a little accent in their clothes, a subtle, subversive nod to rebellion. Inside the Harrington Jacket is perhaps the most famous example of this, with its colourful red-and-black tartan lining. 

From the Jacobite rebellion to the Sex Pistols, rebellion and subversion have long been associated with tartan. And despite tartan’s complicated legacy, its inclusion in mod style points to the mod’s pride in British culture and heritage.

Checks like Dogtooth and Prince of Wales (POW) are part of the British sartorial canon. A little more subdued colour-wise, this pattern is better suited to the outside of garments; again, the Harrington jacket demonstrates this with its iconic dogtooth and Prince of Wales variants. However, dogtootha and POW were also popular patterns for the sharp, smart suits that mods so loved.

The History Of Tartan Plaid And Check Patterns

Prince of Wales

Prince of Wales tartan is a classic, monochrome check style made famous by, as you may have guessed, The Prince of Wales, specifically Edward VII. Originally known as Glen Urquhart, and the tartan of an old Scottish family, Edward adopted the style after a trip to Scotland, and it was renamed for him

Dogtooth

Sometimes known as houndstooth, depending on the size of the pattern, dogtooth is a two-tone textile, characterised by broken checks or abstract four-pointed shapes. This pattern also originated in Scotland, specifically the lowlands, and it became popular over time as a style for interior fabrics and clothes. Yet another Prince of Wales, Edward VIII, is credited with popularising the pattern, elevating it from a peasant textile to a hallmark of smart-but-casual fashion.

Tartan

Tartan is a criss-cross pattern of different colours and stripe widths, running both horizontally and vertically, to create square patterns called ‘setts.’ Tartan has become a symbol of Scotland and has undergone three major periods of popularity. First, as highland dress in the 17th Century, where it was famously a uniform of Jacobite rebels, and most recently in the 60s and 70s, where it was again worn as a symbol of defiance.

Mixing Patterns And Styling Plaids

Chopping and changing patterns was a hallmark of mod style, and that goes well beyond checks and tartan. Paisley, pin-stripe and polka dots were also hugely popular and were used interchangeably with checks and tartans. Mod dress may have looked like a mish-mash of styles, but for the well-dressed, every choice was deliberate.

Here are some basic rules to follow while mixing patterns:

Size variation: The size of similar patterns can either be exactly the same or drastically different, never in between. Different-sized patterns create a visual hierarchy and add depth to your outfit. But if they’re too similar, you’ll end up looking chaotic and unfocused.

Colour choice: Be deliberate with your colour choice and stick to a palette. Group hues together and don’t throw everything at the wall. If you’re starting to experiment with patterns, remember you can’t go wrong pairing them with a solid colour.

Style changes: Paisley is floral, whereas pinstripe is linear and 2-dimensional. You can create some really interesting contrasts by mixing different pattern styles. 

Ready to Experiment With the Classics?

Mods are pioneers. They didn’t follow the rule book; they invented it. That means you can wear whatever patterns you want, however you want. Just do it with confidence. 

Take a look at our check and tartan trousers to get started.

Clean-cut style without the hassle. This is what the button-down shirt brought to the mod scene. 

A button-down is any shirt where you can ‘button down’ the collar of the shirt to the shirt itself. They come in short and long-sleeved versions, and they’ve been a symbol of effortless cool in the UK ever since the mods got their hands on them.

However, when these shirts arrived in the 1960s, they were not a new garment like Sta Prest trousers; in fact, their creation predates even the bomber jacket, first popularised in World War I. The button-down was first worn by English polo players in the late 19th Century, shortly before it was made popular by an American clothing manufacturer, and long before it arrived back in London.

A versatile piece of clothing that marked an instant shift in fashion standards while continuing to assert its ongoing cultural impact, the button-down is an important piece of fashion history and a mainstay in any mod's wardrobe.

What Is a Button-Down?

A button-down is any shirt where the points of the collar can be ‘buttoned down’ to the body of the shirt. They are an incredibly versatile piece of clothing, used for smart, casual, and smart-casual occasions, and for anything else in between. They come in a huge range of fabrics and styles, and were originally enjoyed for their ease of use.

Before button-down collars, collars were detachable from the shirt. Sounds weird, but people did this so they could starch the collar to help it hold its shape, then wash it separately. Although starching did give older collars some rigidity, the drawback was that they were incredibly rough and uncomfortable. Also, the time it took to detach and re-attach the collar really detracted from its ‘convenience.’

Today, detachable collars are a relic of the past, used mainly in antique formal wear, by members of the clergy, and law professionals – you know, the people who also wear those silly wigs. The button-down, on the other hand, despite being well over 100 years old, is still a hugely popular garment.

Who Invented The Button-Down Shirt

The button-down was born on horseback, though technically, it was the ponies. What we mean by this is that button-down shirts began as a specialist garment, made to order for the polo players of London’s prestigious Hurlingham Club. Players were tired of the collars flapping in the wind and asked their tailors to sew buttons in order to secure them.

This caught the eye of American John Brooks, of Brooks Brothers, an industrial clothing manufacturer based in New York. He took the idea back to the USA shortly before Brooks Brothers began manufacturing button-down shirts at scale. These were an instant success, finding huge popularity amongst the elite schools of America’s East Coast, namely Princeton University. 

60s Mod Fashion And Everyone Else

The button-down was seen as casual when it first came on the scene. Though compared to the stiff, starchy, detachable collars that were the norm back then, that was probably the case for most new pieces.

USA and the East Coast

A cornerstone of that preppy, Ivy League style, the button-down shirt was hugely popular within the elite spaces of East Coast, New England schools and universities. Students were inspired by the young Prince of Wales, Prince Edward, who, in turn, was inspired by more relaxed American attire. The button-down erred on the side of comfort, while still looking good with a jacket.

The UK mods and skinheads

The button-down was destined to be big on the mod scene. Not only for its ease and versatility, but because, at their core, the button-down and the mod shared a foundational essence: the ability to switch up between smart, sharp, and incredibly well-cut, while also remaining both comfortable and functional.

Clean, sharp and modern. Smart, but never sterile, these shirts helped England’s youth stand apart from the generations that came before them, their parents, who saw fashion as frivolity. Although simple, these shirts could offer so much more range when it came to style and fit. They allowed for the mod ideal of self-expression.

How To Style Men’s Button-Down Shirts

The strength of this piece of clothing comes from its versatility. You can wear the long-sleeve version under a jacket or by itself, rolled up or buttoned. If it’s hot outside, or you’re too tough to feel the cold, you can also opt for the short-sleeve version.

These shirts also come in a frankly ridiculous number of styles, patterns, and materials. So no matter the occasion, there’s a button-down and styling option that’ll work for you.

Office work: Depending on where you work, a button-down and a blazer is a safe bet for a sharp, elevated look. If you’re going for ‘proper smart,’ whip out a tie or any pocket square you have to hand. Remember, button-downs can provide a punch of colour themselves or just act as a supporting piece.

Smart casual event: Keep the tie on if you like, or even whack on the braces. Short or long-sleeve button-downs look great either by themselves or with a couple of accessories here and there. Tuck for smart, untuck for dancing.

Football match: From the mods to the football casuals, the button-down is as ever-present on the terraces as it is down the bars and music venues. For an absolutely timeless look, there can be no other combination than the button-down and the Harrington jacket. Perfection.

Football match (World Cup Final): Tied around your waist, pulled over your head or thrown to the crowd and stomped on. If England wins, you can wear a button-down however you like.

Authentic Retro Classics

At Relco, we know the power of a button-down; that’s why they’re our largest collection. Long sleeve, short sleeve, checkered, floral, paisley, patterned and polka dot, we have a wide selection of shirts for a huge number of mods. Check them out.