Mod style was built for every moment. It just happens to go hardest on a Friday.

The kind of Friday that moves quickly from your house to your job, to the pub and beyond, wherever the night takes you, usually somewhere with music and a line outside the door.

That’s the whole point of the Mod look. It’s sharp enough for the day and adaptable enough for the night. And at Relco, we make the Mod look tough enough to survive both, all while keeping that clean-cut fashion we know you love.

Mod fashion never left the pubs and clubs because that’s where it was born. It did, however, get an office job, but don’t worry, it looks cool there, too.

Music and Mods: Which Came First?

Mod fashion and music grew up together. And like a pair of siblings, nicking each other’s style and giving back something slightly different, neither one really makes sense on its own.

As the sound changed, so did the style

As the music shifted from 50s jazz to 60s rock and R&B, and then to the more confrontational sound of the 70s and 80s, the clothes followed. We moved from pure, clean tailoring to something a little rougher, with a little more youthful edge.

The bands that sharpened the look

The Who and The Kinks, all sharp suits and restless energy, famously defined the 60s Mod scene in London. The Jam continued to move the needle in the 70s, bringing Mod style to a new generation without losing what made it special.

How did the Mods influence the musicians?

In the 60s, influence swung both ways; the Beatles themselves shopped on Carnaby Street and Cecil Gee.

The lines between the fan and the performer became even more blurred when the Gold Brothers, who ran the famous men's clothing shop, Lord John, hired the Yardbirds and The Small Faces to play outside. When this happened, the shopfront really became part of the music scene. 

What Makes Mod & Retro Fashion so Adaptable?

Mod fashion works on the many levels it does for three big reasons: it balances style and substance, it’s born of the working class, and it’s just so simple.

The clothes looked good and lasted, meaning pieces could be cherished for longer; fashion was slower back in the day. The working-class roots were about keeping pieces practical; they had to justify their existence through everyday use, to look good and work in the real world. As for simplicity, clean lines and sharper styles are exactly what let a Mod outfit move between settings so seamlessly.

Mod Fashion Staples

Shirts

Mod Favourites: Polos, paisley, button-down, checks

A shirt that doesn’t shout travels well from function to function. Crisp button-downs, with subtle patterns, sit nicely at the desk or at the pub. Bolder prints, like paisley, have their place after 5, though with enough confidence, you can wear one on the job.

Trousers

Mod Favourites: Sta Prest, tartan and two-tone

These are the Mod trouser staples, but remember, it’s as much about the fit as it is the style. A slim, tailored cut helps trousers to look sharp and move properly, in the office or on the dance floor.

Jackets

Mod Favourites: Harringtons, bombers, parkas and blazers

Jackets are all about layering. A blazer can help you dress up any outfit, a Harrington helps you strip things back at the pub, and a parka protects your clobber when you find yourself on the back of a moped.

Accessories

Mod favourites: Braces, ties and badges

Small adjustments can do some real heavy lifting. Loosening a tie, undoing a top button or pinning a badge can make a world of difference to your outfit, without sacrificing that sharp style.

One Mod Outfit, 3 Functions

Let's keep it simple: navy Sta Prest trousers, a short-sleeve button-down, a tie and a Harrington Jacket. That’s what you’ve got on this Friday. Here’s how it moves through the day.

At work

Here, the tie is done up, the jacket’s on, and the shirt is tucked. You look clean, sharp and professional, able to hold your own anywhere from the office to the shop floor.

The pub

At your local after work, the tie is loosened but still on, a button comes undone, and your jacket’s over your arm. You are ready for that first, well-deserved pint.

The gig

It’s time to look for music now. The tie’s off, sleeves are rolled a little, and your jacket’s got your back against the night air. 

What was sharp at 9 am is still good at 9 pm. Every element of your outfit has moved with you throughout the day, and with minimal adjustments, you’ve stayed looking fresh.

The After-Dark Difference

So, what changes? Nothing really. It’s just that fabrics that read as polished in the day, hold an edge under gig lighting and pub glow. What stays the same is comfort and sharpness. 

Comfort is always there because the Mod outfit never stops being wearable, no matter where the day takes you. That sharpness can survive a loosened tie, an undone button, and however many pints you have at the pub, because Relco’s Mod classics hold their shape. Check out our full range today.

The monkey jacket's spent sixty years playing second fiddle to the Harrington, and that's a bit daft when you put the two side by side. Ask anyone what a mod wore on his scooter in 1966, and you'll hear "Harrington" every time. 

Fair enough, they were everywhere. But the monkey jacket was on those same scooters.

What's a Monkey Jacket, Then?

Short, boxy, zip straight up the front, and cut to stop dead at your waist. That's your monkey jacket. You've got ribbed knit at the cuffs and hem, and a ribbed band collar where a Harrington would give you a turn-up.

Around the front, you'll find two slash pockets. Inside, there's an easy-access pocket that, back in the day, held the smokes. The fabric's usually a cotton blend, light as anything, either unlined or barely lined at all.

That tells you what the jacket's for. It was never meant to be a winter coat. It's a layer for spring, for autumn, and for those evenings when the British weather can't make up its mind. Some shops call it a bowling jacket. Others go with the mod bomber. 

Where the Monkey Jacket Origin Story Really Starts

Here's the bit most people don't know. The name's a good hundred years older than the mods. A monkey jacket was what sailors wore in the 1800s. Short, close-fitting, cut without tails, so nothing snagged on the rigging when a lad went up the mast.

As for why it got called that, the popular version points at the organ grinder's monkey and his little tail-less jacket. Whether that's gospel or just a good yarn, it's stuck for two centuries. The sailors themselves had a blunter name for it: Bum-freezer.

The jacket that arrived on Carnaby Street sailed over from America, out of the Ivy League campuses and the bowling alleys, where a short zip jacket with knitted trim was nothing more exciting than ordinary sportswear. 

Then British teenagers clocked it in the early 60s and made it their own.

Mods went for it because it looked dapper on a scooter. Skinheads picked it up a few years later for much the same reason.

Monkey Jacket vs Harrington: Which One's Your Go-To?

Both are short. Both zip. That's about where it stops.

Your Harrington has been in production since 1937, christened in the mid-60s by John Simons after a character from Peyton Place. It's got a pointed collar you can turn up when it's blowing, an umbrella yoke across the back to shift the rain, slanted flap pockets, and that Fraser tartan lining everyone recognises.

The monkey jacket gives you none of that. No collar worth the name, no rain defence, no lining to flash at anyone. What it's got instead is colour, and loads of it. The tipping on a monkey jacket does more visual work than anything on a Harrington, which is exactly why it photographs well (and exactly why the purists never took it seriously).

How to Wear a Monkey Jacket

The zip determines the whole thing. Done up to the throat, you're in mod territory. Half open over a polo, it turns casual and easy. Left hanging wide with the ribbing loose at the hem, it goes scruffy in a way the cut doesn't want, so pick one of the first two.

Underneath, keep it tucked and keep it retro: a button-down shirt with a decent collar roll is classic. What'll ruin it is a hoodie.

Trousers want to be flat and straight: Sta-Prest, two-tone tonic, or plain straight-leg denim with a turn-up on the bottom. The jacket's already short and square, so anything baggy below the belt throws off your proportions. A high rise helps enormously here. Go low, and you'll leave a gap between the hem and the waistband that nobody wants to look at.

Footwear’s  where you set the register. Loafers or Chelsea boots smarten up the whole outfit. Monkey boots or a pair of Docs drag it towards the terraces, which is a proper look if that's your thing. Clean canvas trainers do a job in summer, though they'll knock the outfit down a peg, so keep them away from your tonic.

On fit, short is the entire point. The hem should be at your waistband or just above it, with the ribbing gripping rather than straining. If the body's covering your belt, you've bought an MA-1 bomber by mistake. Sleeves should finish at the wrist bone, with the cuff lying flat, never bunched halfway up your forearm.

Colour's the last one. If you're buying your first one, navy or black will go with everything you already own. Sky blue and stone are for people who've already done the sensible colours.

Final Thoughts on the Monkey Jacket

Sixty years of British subculture, a naval name older than that, and a shape that's barely changed since the scooters were new. Get the length right, get the zip right, and it'll do more for an outfit than half the coats in your wardrobe.

Have a look through Relco's monkey jackets and pick the colourway that suits your clobber.

The Story Behind Two-Tone Clothing in British Subculture

There’s a reason tonic suits still turn heads, 60 years after they first hit Carnaby Street. Two-tone dressing is more than just a colourway; it’s one of the most enduring and alluring stylistic statements to emerge from British youth culture. Today, it remains as sharp as the Mods who first claimed it.

What is Two-Tone Dressing?

Two-tone, or tonic, cloth is woven from two different-coloured threads, usually a blend of mohair and wool. Tonic became iconic because of the way the fabric shifts between shades as the wearer moves and the angle of the light changes.

Tonik cloth, as it was originally known, was created in the late 1950s by the French-British fashion house, Dormeuil. The Mohair fabric comes from the Angora goat, and on its own, it was too expensive and uncomfortable to wear. It was eventually mixed with wool to create what we now know as Tonic cloth. Wool adds a touch of softness, while the mohair provides the sheen. And together, they make a fabric with plenty of natural lustre, crease resistance, and a tendency to look like two colours at once.

This effect is what sold the fabric. Move your arm on the dance floor, and the colour of your suit changes. Stand still, the colour settles into a single, deeper colour. Whether you’re standing under club lighting or out on the street, that shimmer is difficult to miss, making tonic suits the standout choice for a generation that wanted to be seen.

Why the Mods Loved Tonic Trousers and Jackets

The first Mods were young, working-class Londoners, messengers, apprentices and office juniors, the first post-war generation to earn a wage of their own. At a time when nothing in fashion was made for them, they saved up and dressed up above their class as a statement of rebellious ambition. Despite the Mod image of ‘effortless cool’, it took a lot of work to look the way they did.

Tonic cloth, with its sheen and its shimmer, stood out to them more than anything else on the rail. It looked bold, daring, and on a packed dancefloor, it was a sure-fire way to be seen and photographed like nothing else in the room. Mod women were also making statements, in tonic skirts that carried that same sharp perception as the men in their suits.

Mohair tailoring had made its home in Savile Row for a few years by the 60s. What the Mods did was take an established, relatively upper-crust fabric and make it their own. Leaning hard into Italian and French influences, narrow lapels and slim European silhouettes, that stood apart from the British mainstream. Two-tone was a borrowed taste, worn on a minimum wage and cut in a style no one else in the country expected.

Beyond the style, the Mods loved two-tone fabric for the same reason they loved Sta Prest trousers. It was crease-resistant, breathable, and didn’t slow the Mods down on the dance floor. A suit that survived hours out on the town and still looked good at 3am was remarkable. Tonic could take what the Mods threw at it.

How Two-Tone Moved Beyond Mod Outfits

Style doesn’t sit still for long, and tonic quickly worked its way through the suedeheads and skinheads who followed the Mods, with the latter pairing tonic trousers with hard-wearing Sherman shirts and brouges.

Around the same time, the Jamaican diaspora and rude boy look arrived on the streets of England. Influenced by ska and rocksteady, and rocking the same clean lines and sharp tailoring as the Mods, this new group dressed well for the same reason: smart tailoring as a sign of ambition and self-respect.

This thread was pulled again in the 1970s when the aptly named 2-tone movement revived rude boy style, pushing tonic suits back into the mainstream, along with the Mod and skinhead influences.

Why the Look Still Works

Tonic hasn’t changed, nor has the confidence needed to style it properly. If you’re wondering how this shimmering 60s miracle fabric fits into your wardrobe, here are a few tips.

For a casual, suedehead-leaning look, pair tonic trousers with a retro shirt and loafers, no jacket needed. Or if you want to dress it up, throw on a polo or add a Harrington jacket for an easy, weekend-ready take.

A tonic skirt pairs naturally with flat shoes and a simple top, in keeping with Mod womenswear's stripped-back, no-fuss approach. Browse the full women's vintage collection for clothing with the same sharp, minimal styling.

Two-tone fabric occupies this rare middle ground. Dressier than casualwear, but never stiff or corporate, and with a shimmer that keeps it from ever reading as boring. As sharp and bold as the rest of the Mods’ style. 

Ready to build the look? Shop the full Relco collection and see what sixty years of Mod style still has to offer.

Check, tartan, and all the big heritage patterns are huge parts of fashion history, each with its own style and traditions. 

More commonly associated with punks of the 70s than mods of the 60s, tartan was nevertheless a key element of mod style, frequently finding itself in the lining of jackets and on A-line skirts. Checks are the more understated of the two; we usually see them in smart suits and interior fabrics.

Mods loved tartan for the bold colours, its non-conformist style and the straight lines that came to epitomise so many of their clothing choices. Like the mod movement itself, tartan is loud. But how do you wear something that loud, casually? Checks can be a little more understated, striking more so in pattern than colour, but they can still come off as corny if not styled right.

Knowing where tartan and checks fit and how to style around them, as well as their history, can help you take your checks out on the town without looking like Ronald McDonald or a punk in Camden Lock.

The Mods And Heritage Patterns

We know the mods liked looking different. And unless you’re a tourist in Edinburgh, wearing checks and tartan is a sure-fire way to stand out. Mods didn’t fancy their parents' conservative style, so they branched out into more daring patterns. Checks and tartans allowed mods to look bold while retaining an air of sophistication.

Unlike the punks that followed, mods wore tartan sparingly, a little accent in their clothes, a subtle, subversive nod to rebellion. Inside the Harrington Jacket is perhaps the most famous example of this, with its colourful red-and-black tartan lining. 

From the Jacobite rebellion to the Sex Pistols, rebellion and subversion have long been associated with tartan. And despite tartan’s complicated legacy, its inclusion in mod style points to the mod’s pride in British culture and heritage.

Checks like Dogtooth and Prince of Wales (POW) are part of the British sartorial canon. A little more subdued colour-wise, this pattern is better suited to the outside of garments; again, the Harrington jacket demonstrates this with its iconic dogtooth and Prince of Wales variants. However, dogtootha and POW were also popular patterns for the sharp, smart suits that mods so loved.

The History Of Tartan Plaid And Check Patterns

Prince of Wales

Prince of Wales tartan is a classic, monochrome check style made famous by, as you may have guessed, The Prince of Wales, specifically Edward VII. Originally known as Glen Urquhart, and the tartan of an old Scottish family, Edward adopted the style after a trip to Scotland, and it was renamed for him

Dogtooth

Sometimes known as houndstooth, depending on the size of the pattern, dogtooth is a two-tone textile, characterised by broken checks or abstract four-pointed shapes. This pattern also originated in Scotland, specifically the lowlands, and it became popular over time as a style for interior fabrics and clothes. Yet another Prince of Wales, Edward VIII, is credited with popularising the pattern, elevating it from a peasant textile to a hallmark of smart-but-casual fashion.

Tartan

Tartan is a criss-cross pattern of different colours and stripe widths, running both horizontally and vertically, to create square patterns called ‘setts.’ Tartan has become a symbol of Scotland and has undergone three major periods of popularity. First, as highland dress in the 17th Century, where it was famously a uniform of Jacobite rebels, and most recently in the 60s and 70s, where it was again worn as a symbol of defiance.

Mixing Patterns And Styling Plaids

Chopping and changing patterns was a hallmark of mod style, and that goes well beyond checks and tartan. Paisley, pin-stripe and polka dots were also hugely popular and were used interchangeably with checks and tartans. Mod dress may have looked like a mish-mash of styles, but for the well-dressed, every choice was deliberate.

Here are some basic rules to follow while mixing patterns:

Size variation: The size of similar patterns can either be exactly the same or drastically different, never in between. Different-sized patterns create a visual hierarchy and add depth to your outfit. But if they’re too similar, you’ll end up looking chaotic and unfocused.

Colour choice: Be deliberate with your colour choice and stick to a palette. Group hues together and don’t throw everything at the wall. If you’re starting to experiment with patterns, remember you can’t go wrong pairing them with a solid colour.

Style changes: Paisley is floral, whereas pinstripe is linear and 2-dimensional. You can create some really interesting contrasts by mixing different pattern styles. 

Ready to Experiment With the Classics?

Mods are pioneers. They didn’t follow the rule book; they invented it. That means you can wear whatever patterns you want, however you want. Just do it with confidence. 

Take a look at our check and tartan trousers to get started.

Clean-cut style without the hassle. This is what the button-down shirt brought to the mod scene. 

A button-down is any shirt where you can ‘button down’ the collar of the shirt to the shirt itself. They come in short and long-sleeved versions, and they’ve been a symbol of effortless cool in the UK ever since the mods got their hands on them.

However, when these shirts arrived in the 1960s, they were not a new garment like Sta Prest trousers; in fact, their creation predates even the bomber jacket, first popularised in World War I. The button-down was first worn by English polo players in the late 19th Century, shortly before it was made popular by an American clothing manufacturer, and long before it arrived back in London.

A versatile piece of clothing that marked an instant shift in fashion standards while continuing to assert its ongoing cultural impact, the button-down is an important piece of fashion history and a mainstay in any mod's wardrobe.

What Is a Button-Down?

A button-down is any shirt where the points of the collar can be ‘buttoned down’ to the body of the shirt. They are an incredibly versatile piece of clothing, used for smart, casual, and smart-casual occasions, and for anything else in between. They come in a huge range of fabrics and styles, and were originally enjoyed for their ease of use.

Before button-down collars, collars were detachable from the shirt. Sounds weird, but people did this so they could starch the collar to help it hold its shape, then wash it separately. Although starching did give older collars some rigidity, the drawback was that they were incredibly rough and uncomfortable. Also, the time it took to detach and re-attach the collar really detracted from its ‘convenience.’

Today, detachable collars are a relic of the past, used mainly in antique formal wear, by members of the clergy, and law professionals – you know, the people who also wear those silly wigs. The button-down, on the other hand, despite being well over 100 years old, is still a hugely popular garment.

Who Invented The Button-Down Shirt

The button-down was born on horseback, though technically, it was the ponies. What we mean by this is that button-down shirts began as a specialist garment, made to order for the polo players of London’s prestigious Hurlingham Club. Players were tired of the collars flapping in the wind and asked their tailors to sew buttons in order to secure them.

This caught the eye of American John Brooks, of Brooks Brothers, an industrial clothing manufacturer based in New York. He took the idea back to the USA shortly before Brooks Brothers began manufacturing button-down shirts at scale. These were an instant success, finding huge popularity amongst the elite schools of America’s East Coast, namely Princeton University. 

60s Mod Fashion And Everyone Else

The button-down was seen as casual when it first came on the scene. Though compared to the stiff, starchy, detachable collars that were the norm back then, that was probably the case for most new pieces.

USA and the East Coast

A cornerstone of that preppy, Ivy League style, the button-down shirt was hugely popular within the elite spaces of East Coast, New England schools and universities. Students were inspired by the young Prince of Wales, Prince Edward, who, in turn, was inspired by more relaxed American attire. The button-down erred on the side of comfort, while still looking good with a jacket.

The UK mods and skinheads

The button-down was destined to be big on the mod scene. Not only for its ease and versatility, but because, at their core, the button-down and the mod shared a foundational essence: the ability to switch up between smart, sharp, and incredibly well-cut, while also remaining both comfortable and functional.

Clean, sharp and modern. Smart, but never sterile, these shirts helped England’s youth stand apart from the generations that came before them, their parents, who saw fashion as frivolity. Although simple, these shirts could offer so much more range when it came to style and fit. They allowed for the mod ideal of self-expression.

How To Style Men’s Button-Down Shirts

The strength of this piece of clothing comes from its versatility. You can wear the long-sleeve version under a jacket or by itself, rolled up or buttoned. If it’s hot outside, or you’re too tough to feel the cold, you can also opt for the short-sleeve version.

These shirts also come in a frankly ridiculous number of styles, patterns, and materials. So no matter the occasion, there’s a button-down and styling option that’ll work for you.

Office work: Depending on where you work, a button-down and a blazer is a safe bet for a sharp, elevated look. If you’re going for ‘proper smart,’ whip out a tie or any pocket square you have to hand. Remember, button-downs can provide a punch of colour themselves or just act as a supporting piece.

Smart casual event: Keep the tie on if you like, or even whack on the braces. Short or long-sleeve button-downs look great either by themselves or with a couple of accessories here and there. Tuck for smart, untuck for dancing.

Football match: From the mods to the football casuals, the button-down is as ever-present on the terraces as it is down the bars and music venues. For an absolutely timeless look, there can be no other combination than the button-down and the Harrington jacket. Perfection.

Football match (World Cup Final): Tied around your waist, pulled over your head or thrown to the crowd and stomped on. If England wins, you can wear a button-down however you like.

Authentic Retro Classics

At Relco, we know the power of a button-down; that’s why they’re our largest collection. Long sleeve, short sleeve, checkered, floral, paisley, patterned and polka dot, we have a wide selection of shirts for a huge number of mods. Check them out.

From the 1960s to now, Sta-Prest trousers are as iconic as ever. Comfortable yet durable, simple yet versatile, these mod classics have stood the test of time while still looking fresh.

Mods toe the line between smart and casual like no one else. Tailored fits without the trip to Savile Row, looking sharp without compromising on working-class roots, clean living under difficult circumstances. These trousers put looking good within the reach of every mod.

These wrinkle-free trousers balanced style with ease, and today, we see their legacy in every piece of clothing. Invented in America and made popular on the streets of Soho, these trousers did so much more than change what’s stylish.

What Makes Sta-Prest Trousers Iconic?

Developed by Levi’s in 1964, these trousers became an instant classic on the mod scene, largely due to their sharp lines and wrinkle-resistant material. Recognisable by their famous iron-free crease, these trousers first became popular as work garments, trusted for their durability and reliable freshness.

From ‘stay pressed’ to ‘Sta-Prest’, even the name of these iconic trousers suggests speed and efficiency. Designed to be worn straight from the dryer, with no need for ironing. The classic creases come from the curing process and ensure that the trousers hold their shape through every wash.

But it’s not just the washer these trousers have outlived. Through decades of trends, cultural shifts, and evolving tastes, these trousers have remained a style staple. Even beyond fashion, we feel their legacy in the ease of modern clothing. Just think about all the times you skip the ironing because you know your clothes will hold their shape and never crinkle. That all started with this piece of clothing.

But specifically, it started in California in 1961, when a women’s sportswear manufacturer first developed and patented the permanent crease: coating with a chemical resin, pleating with a steam press, and then baking in an oven. Levi’s adopted this technique, then changed the world with their newest trousers.

Mod Fashion

Sta-Prest trousers were an instant subcultural icon. Picture a slim, tailored fit, with permanent lines that accentuate height and create a sleek silhouette. The mods quickly fell in love with these innovative trousers because of how easy they made dressing well and looking good. 

Created as workwear, but quickly adopted (as is often the case) into the world of fashion. Crafted from wool and blended fabrics, into a style that was sharp yet understated, the main power of these trousers was their versatility.

They pair with anything from t-shirts to button-downs and blazers. Mods loved them because they brought a smart sophistication to the everyday, helping them stand out on the street or the music scene. Skinheads continued the trend, cropping them at the bottom to show off their boots.

Convenience and American cool, the original Sta-Prest brought a little transatlantic flair. While simple maintenance made looking after these trousers as quick and easy as a short scooter ride.

1960s Style To Now

Blurring the lines between form and function, these trousers are remembered for helping bridge the gap between formal and everyday wear, all while combining comfort and style.

In the 1990s, Sta-Prest went through a revival, thanks largely to Levi's new campaign and a puppet called ‘Flat Eric.’ 30 years after their inception, these ads still play on the idea that Sta-Prest means easy style. While the TV ads may have been scored to techno, as opposed to The Who, one thing that’s as cool in the 90s (and today) as it was in the 60s are these trousers.

Today, Sta-Prest can also be credited for a wider choice of casual trousers beyond just jeans, with chinos owing their popularity to these stylish 60s classics. Beyond style, permanent creases changed the way we maintain our clothes. Today, the Sta-Prest legacy can be seen wherever style meets ease.

Care Guide

That’s the beauty of caring for these trousers… You don’t really need to. They’re designed to stay sharp and retain style, effortlessly, through every wash. With mod spirit still alive in these trousers, you can rely on them to stand up to hard, everyday use, all while holding their shape and sharp creases.

Sta-Prest Classics And Other Men’s Retro Trousers

At Relco, 60s style lives on. 

We design our clothes to replicate classic styles, giving mods and skinheads proper clobber that looks as good today as it did then. Made with high-quality cotton-poly blends, and according to the permanent crease procedure that’s stood the test of time, our Sta-Prest trousers, like you, are made to last.

Remember, a good pair should have:

• That strong, signature crease down both legs

• A tailored cut from the waist to the hem

• Around a 60/40 polyester, cotton blend.

Trends come and go. The Harrington jacket doesn't. Neither does the knitted polo. There’s a lot happening in menswear this year: wider fits, softer silhouettes, oversized everything. But underneath all of that, the pieces people actually reach for haven't changed much. They never really do. 

The clothes that came up from British subculture were designed to work, not to be fashionable. They were influenced by music, sport and the everyday experiences of working-class people.

Why Retro Fashion Is All Over Menswear Right Now

Oversized everything is the theme for menswear in 2026: dropped shoulders, wide fits, and loose shapes. Some of it's good. But underneath all of it, the pieces people keep reaching for are the same ones they've always reached for. Clean lines. Practical cuts. Clothes designed to last more than a season. 

The subcultures that built British style weren't interested in fashion for its own sake. It was about identity and being part of something. That instinct hasn't gone, and in 2026 it's more present than ever.

The Knitted Polo and Why It's Back

Knitted polos are everywhere in 2026. Relaxed, oversized, roomy cuts and dropped shoulders. That's one way to wear it, and it's a strong look. But there's another retro fashion trend making a comeback, too, and it's one that's been around a lot longer.

The mod scene didn't invent the knitted polo, but it made it its own. In the early sixties, London kids who'd grown up around jazz clubs and Italian tailoring took the polo and wore it the only way that made sense. Fitted, tidy, tucked in. Part of a complete look that said something specific about who you were and where you stood. By the time the skinhead scene emerged from the harder end of mod culture, the knitted polo was already a staple. It crossed over into the Two-Tone era without missing a beat.

In 2026, if you’re wearing it fitted with a pair of straight leg or sta-prest trousers and a clean pair of boots, you can’t go wrong.

The Harrington: An Everyday Staple

The Harrington has been around since the fifties. Developed in America, so completely adopted by British youth culture that it became something else entirely. When mods started wearing it in the early sixties, they weren't looking for a fashion piece. They wanted something lightweight, smart enough for a night out, practical enough for a scooter ride across London. The Harrington ticked every box.

It carried straight through into the skinhead scene, into punk, into Two-Tone. Each generation wore it for the same reasons. It fits well, and it works in every situation. In bottle green or burgundy, it pairs naturally with straight-leg trousers and boots. In tan or navy, it works just as well over a knitted polo. Throw it on and the outfit is done.

The Harrington is back in 2026, showing up across menswear as the layer of the season. Finding men's vintage clothing that holds up across six decades without needing reinvention is rare. The Harrington does it without breaking a sweat.

Straight-Leg Trousers: A Timeless Classic

The straight leg has been a constant across British subcultures for decades, and for good reason. Mods wore them tailored and precise, cut to sit just right with a Chelsea boot or a loafer. Skinheads wore them cropped higher to show the boot, practical as much as stylistic. 

Straight-leg trousers are back in 2026. Clean silhouette, works with everything, nothing to overthink. The cut hasn't changed because it never needed to. 
Pair them with a knitted polo and a Harrington, and the whole look comes together without much effort. 

Finding vintage clothing that works with straight-leg trousers is easy when you know where to look. The brands worth going to are the ones that are rooted in the subcultures that made the clothes matter in the first place.

Inspired-By Vintage Clothing Online 

Retro styling in 2026 isn't about dressing up. The Harrington, the knitted polo, the straight-leg trousers. They’re still here because they were never really about fashion in the first place. They came out of communities that needed clothes to mean something. To hold up. To say something about who was wearing them.

That's still what they do. Not because they're trending. Because they never needed to. Shop the range to find vintage-inspired clobber that's been part of the culture since day one.

You love the 60s. We love the 60s, it’s why we started Relco (though of course, when we started, the 60s were still going’). 

Born out of the music and culture of the time, the 60s mod and skinhead style came to encapsulate the attitude of the era. A loud birth of individual expression so strong and so resonant that we still recognise and celebrate it today.

But even though the look is timeless and the classics are still sharp, the world of fashion has continued to evolve. The styles changed, and weirdly, so have the sizes…

Maybe it’s just us, but do clothes not fit the way they used to? If you’re also struggling to find the perfect fit in retro clothing, whether buying new or second-hand, here’s a guide to help.

When Did The Size Guide Change?

Has this happened to you? You’re shopping online and you find a piece you like, let’s say it’s a short-sleeve button-down. You check the sizes, and you pick the one you always pick; you know, the one that’s fitted you for years. Only when the shirt arrives, you can barely button it up. In this instance, I’m afraid you’ve just become a victim of the ever-shifting size guide.

Sizes have been changing since they began. The process that started as a wartime necessity, outfiting soldiers in uniform without having to measure them individually, can’t really be perfected.

Each body is unique, and as such, standard sizes will never fully work. And if that wasn’t a problem, over time, bodies have continued to change, so much so that as soon as a new standard comes in, it can become outdated within a couple of generations. The general theme is that people are getting bigger.

The term ‘vanity sizing’ refers to yet another spanner in the works of a universal size standard. See, some clothes manufacturers felt they would appeal more to customers (mainly females) if they ‘sized down.’ The thinking being, ‘what dress will a lady choose, one that says she’s ‘large’, or one that says she’s ‘small?’’

Infuriating, we know.

How Has The Style Guide Shifted?

Size aside, the fit’s changed too. Look at the mod style, next to late-90s street style. What’s the difference?

Two people could have the same height, waistline, inseam, the works. But if they both bought one ‘standard’ size of a pair of trousers from their respective eras, the fit would be completely different.

Men’s trends tend to swing back and forth between baggy and skinny. Cast your mind back just 10 years, and you’ll remember ‘spray-on’ jeans, so named for their ultra-skinny fit and stretchy denim texture. Popular then, dated now, but inevitably in style again one day. 

This back and forth in popularity is what keeps fit and sizes shifting.

So What Was The Fit Back In The Day?

In the 60s, ‘modernists,’ or Mods, emerged in London as an aspirational subculture of young people. They dressed well as a statement against the austerity of their parents’ generation.

The fit was sharp and tailored. The lifestyle was coined by The Who’s first manager, Peter Meaden, as “clean living under difficult circumstances.” What he was referring to was the contrast between the well-fitted attire and the gritty, tough, working-class background of the people who made it popular.

While mod culture continued to grow, the ‘skinhead’ subset began to emerge. It was a look built on an ethos of traditional values and a direct return to working-class pride. At its core was a tough yet smart combination of standard shirts, jeans, braces and heavy work boots, the perfect ideal of a smart day-to-day street uniform. Iconic.

Where To Find Retro Fits, Today?

At Relco, we provide retro clothing for the online era. 

We know that nothing ever truly goes out of style. And we believe that vintage classics will always have a place in the heart of UK culture.

Our ethos for over 50 years has been to provide high-quality, tailor-made vintage & retro style clothing at an affordable price. So if you’re looking to drop a hint of nostalgia into your wardrobe, make a statement or show your individual mod spirit, we’re here to help.

How are Relco sizes different?

• Shirts: Our vintage shirt designs have a slim, tailored fit for sizes S and M and a regular fit for sizes L to 5XL.
  
• Trousers: You can refer to our size guide to see how we measure trousers, but generally, the fit is on the slimmer, more tailored side.
  
• Jackets: Harrington and bomber jackets have a higher cut, parkas have a lower cut.

How To Get Retro Clothing That Fits

If in doubt, ignore the label and focus on the measurements, and make sure you allow for 1–2 inches for ease of comfort.

So, now you know the secrets behind the size guide, this summer, you can shop our wide range of short-sleeve and polo shirts without worrying about the fit.

Sportswear wasn’t meant to be fashionable. It was kit, something to train in. British style has always had a knack for taking something practical and making it mean something more. A jacket, a pair of trainers, a polo — in the right hands, at the right moment.

That's exactly what happened with retro sportswear. What started as footy kit for the terraces quietly became one of the most enduring threads running through British identity. This is the story of how it got there.

It Started on the Terraces

The story of British sportswear as fashion begins with football in the late seventies. People followed their clubs across Europe on away days and came back with gear you just couldn’t get here at the time. Fila, Ellesse, Sergio Tacchini. Labels that meant something because not everyone had them. The casual culture was about identity. The right tracksuit top or knitted polo carried status and showed you knew your stuff.

The grit and violence that ran alongside the casual scene often overshadowed what the movement was really about: football and camaraderie. These lads knew exactly what they were doing with their clothes.

The Tracksuit Moves Off the Pitch

Through the eighties, what had started on the terraces spread outward. The track top stopped being something you only saw at a ground or on a training pitch and became a wardrobe staple for youth culture.

The appeal is easy to understand. Retro sportswear is practical, comfortable, and easy to wear. A zip-up track top over a polo shirt and a decent pair of trousers was a low-effort way to look good. The formality of the mod look had loosened up, but the instinct to look sharp hadn’t gone anywhere.

By the end of the decade, it was everywhere, worn by people who had never been near a football terrace in their lives but understood instinctively that it looked good.

Britpop & British Sportswear

If the casual scene put sportswear on the map, Britpop put it on the front pages. The nineties brought a moment when working-class culture stopped quietly filtering upward and became something the whole country was paying attention to.

Bands like Blur and Oasis were the obvious focal point. An Adidas track top and a parka wasn't a stylist's decision — it was just what they wore, and half the country wanted to wear it too. Blur came at it from a different angle, more art school than terrace, but the instinct was the same.

1990s Britpop fashion drew on everyday British clothing worn by ordinary people. Pulp, The Verve, Cast. The whole scene had a visual language built around clothes that weren't trying too hard, even when the people wearing them clearly were. Sportswear sat right at the centre of that, because it carried the right references. It said something about where you were from and what you were into without needing to spell it out.

The magazines picked up on it, the high street followed, and for a few years in the mid-nineties, retro sportswear wasn't a subculture anymore. It was just fashion.

The Retro Polo Shirt

Running through the whole story, from the terraces to Britpop and beyond, is the polo shirt. It’s worth giving it its own mention because it’s done more work than almost any other single garment in British subcultural style.

Fred Perry started as a tennis brand, worn at Wimbledon and built around performance. Mods picked it up in the sixties because the clean collar and neat fit slotted perfectly into their sharper aesthetic. From there, it moved into skinhead culture, where it became a genuine staple. The casual scene wore retro polo shirts under track tops, the label and the laurel wreath visible at the collar — a quiet signal to anyone who knew what they were looking at. Britpop brought them back into focus again, this time on record sleeves and magazine covers as much as on the street.

What's remarkable is how the garment survived each transition with its credibility intact. Few pieces have crossed that many subcultural boundaries, absorbed that many different meanings, and still come out looking right. The retro polo shirt is one of the most loaded items in the British wardrobe, and it got there by being genuinely useful to every scene that adopted it.

Retro Sportswear — Still Going Strong

Retro sportswear hasn’t faded because it wasn’t just about sport. It was about identity, community, fashion and music. The lads on the terraces in 1982 weren’t thinking about fashion week, but they did know about trends.

The same gear that worked then works now for the same reasons. It’s practical, rooted in British culture, with influences from music and footy.

The Relco range reflects the history. Inspired by the love of the game and seventies casual culture, our retro track tops and polos are a nod to that era.