Check, tartan, and all the big heritage patterns are huge parts of fashion history, each with its own style and traditions. 

More commonly associated with punks of the 70s than mods of the 60s, tartan was nevertheless a key element of mod style, frequently finding itself in the lining of jackets and on A-line skirts. Checks are the more understated of the two; we usually see them in smart suits and interior fabrics.

Mods loved tartan for the bold colours, its non-conformist style and the straight lines that came to epitomise so many of their clothing choices. Like the mod movement itself, tartan is loud. But how do you wear something that loud, casually? Checks can be a little more understated, striking more so in pattern than colour, but they can still come off as corny if not styled right.

Knowing where tartan and checks fit and how to style around them, as well as their history, can help you take your checks out on the town without looking like Ronald McDonald or a punk in Camden Lock.

The Mods And Heritage Patterns

We know the mods liked looking different. And unless you’re a tourist in Edinburgh, wearing checks and tartan is a sure-fire way to stand out. Mods didn’t fancy their parents' conservative style, so they branched out into more daring patterns. Checks and tartans allowed mods to look bold while retaining an air of sophistication.

Unlike the punks that followed, mods wore tartan sparingly, a little accent in their clothes, a subtle, subversive nod to rebellion. Inside the Harrington Jacket is perhaps the most famous example of this, with its colourful red-and-black tartan lining. 

From the Jacobite rebellion to the Sex Pistols, rebellion and subversion have long been associated with tartan. And despite tartan’s complicated legacy, its inclusion in mod style points to the mod’s pride in British culture and heritage.

Checks like Dogtooth and Prince of Wales (POW) are part of the British sartorial canon. A little more subdued colour-wise, this pattern is better suited to the outside of garments; again, the Harrington jacket demonstrates this with its iconic dogtooth and Prince of Wales variants. However, dogtootha and POW were also popular patterns for the sharp, smart suits that mods so loved.

The History Of Tartan Plaid And Check Patterns

Prince of Wales

Prince of Wales tartan is a classic, monochrome check style made famous by, as you may have guessed, The Prince of Wales, specifically Edward VII. Originally known as Glen Urquhart, and the tartan of an old Scottish family, Edward adopted the style after a trip to Scotland, and it was renamed for him

Dogtooth

Sometimes known as houndstooth, depending on the size of the pattern, dogtooth is a two-tone textile, characterised by broken checks or abstract four-pointed shapes. This pattern also originated in Scotland, specifically the lowlands, and it became popular over time as a style for interior fabrics and clothes. Yet another Prince of Wales, Edward VIII, is credited with popularising the pattern, elevating it from a peasant textile to a hallmark of smart-but-casual fashion.

Tartan

Tartan is a criss-cross pattern of different colours and stripe widths, running both horizontally and vertically, to create square patterns called ‘setts.’ Tartan has become a symbol of Scotland and has undergone three major periods of popularity. First, as highland dress in the 17th Century, where it was famously a uniform of Jacobite rebels, and most recently in the 60s and 70s, where it was again worn as a symbol of defiance.

Mixing Patterns And Styling Plaids

Chopping and changing patterns was a hallmark of mod style, and that goes well beyond checks and tartan. Paisley, pin-stripe and polka dots were also hugely popular and were used interchangeably with checks and tartans. Mod dress may have looked like a mish-mash of styles, but for the well-dressed, every choice was deliberate.

Here are some basic rules to follow while mixing patterns:

Size variation: The size of similar patterns can either be exactly the same or drastically different, never in between. Different-sized patterns create a visual hierarchy and add depth to your outfit. But if they’re too similar, you’ll end up looking chaotic and unfocused.

Colour choice: Be deliberate with your colour choice and stick to a palette. Group hues together and don’t throw everything at the wall. If you’re starting to experiment with patterns, remember you can’t go wrong pairing them with a solid colour.

Style changes: Paisley is floral, whereas pinstripe is linear and 2-dimensional. You can create some really interesting contrasts by mixing different pattern styles. 

Ready to Experiment With the Classics?

Mods are pioneers. They didn’t follow the rule book; they invented it. That means you can wear whatever patterns you want, however you want. Just do it with confidence. 

Take a look at our check and tartan trousers to get started.

Clean-cut style without the hassle. This is what the button-down shirt brought to the mod scene. 

A button-down is any shirt where you can ‘button down’ the collar of the shirt to the shirt itself. They come in short and long-sleeved versions, and they’ve been a symbol of effortless cool in the UK ever since the mods got their hands on them.

However, when these shirts arrived in the 1960s, they were not a new garment like Sta Prest trousers; in fact, their creation predates even the bomber jacket, first popularised in World War I. The button-down was first worn by English polo players in the late 19th Century, shortly before it was made popular by an American clothing manufacturer, and long before it arrived back in London.

A versatile piece of clothing that marked an instant shift in fashion standards while continuing to assert its ongoing cultural impact, the button-down is an important piece of fashion history and a mainstay in any mod's wardrobe.

What Is a Button-Down?

A button-down is any shirt where the points of the collar can be ‘buttoned down’ to the body of the shirt. They are an incredibly versatile piece of clothing, used for smart, casual, and smart-casual occasions, and for anything else in between. They come in a huge range of fabrics and styles, and were originally enjoyed for their ease of use.

Before button-down collars, collars were detachable from the shirt. Sounds weird, but people did this so they could starch the collar to help it hold its shape, then wash it separately. Although starching did give older collars some rigidity, the drawback was that they were incredibly rough and uncomfortable. Also, the time it took to detach and re-attach the collar really detracted from its ‘convenience.’

Today, detachable collars are a relic of the past, used mainly in antique formal wear, by members of the clergy, and law professionals – you know, the people who also wear those silly wigs. The button-down, on the other hand, despite being well over 100 years old, is still a hugely popular garment.

Who Invented The Button-Down Shirt

The button-down was born on horseback, though technically, it was the ponies. What we mean by this is that button-down shirts began as a specialist garment, made to order for the polo players of London’s prestigious Hurlingham Club. Players were tired of the collars flapping in the wind and asked their tailors to sew buttons in order to secure them.

This caught the eye of American John Brooks, of Brooks Brothers, an industrial clothing manufacturer based in New York. He took the idea back to the USA shortly before Brooks Brothers began manufacturing button-down shirts at scale. These were an instant success, finding huge popularity amongst the elite schools of America’s East Coast, namely Princeton University. 

60s Mod Fashion And Everyone Else

The button-down was seen as casual when it first came on the scene. Though compared to the stiff, starchy, detachable collars that were the norm back then, that was probably the case for most new pieces.

USA and the East Coast

A cornerstone of that preppy, Ivy League style, the button-down shirt was hugely popular within the elite spaces of East Coast, New England schools and universities. Students were inspired by the young Prince of Wales, Prince Edward, who, in turn, was inspired by more relaxed American attire. The button-down erred on the side of comfort, while still looking good with a jacket.

The UK mods and skinheads

The button-down was destined to be big on the mod scene. Not only for its ease and versatility, but because, at their core, the button-down and the mod shared a foundational essence: the ability to switch up between smart, sharp, and incredibly well-cut, while also remaining both comfortable and functional.

Clean, sharp and modern. Smart, but never sterile, these shirts helped England’s youth stand apart from the generations that came before them, their parents, who saw fashion as frivolity. Although simple, these shirts could offer so much more range when it came to style and fit. They allowed for the mod ideal of self-expression.

How To Style Men’s Button-Down Shirts

The strength of this piece of clothing comes from its versatility. You can wear the long-sleeve version under a jacket or by itself, rolled up or buttoned. If it’s hot outside, or you’re too tough to feel the cold, you can also opt for the short-sleeve version.

These shirts also come in a frankly ridiculous number of styles, patterns, and materials. So no matter the occasion, there’s a button-down and styling option that’ll work for you.

Office work: Depending on where you work, a button-down and a blazer is a safe bet for a sharp, elevated look. If you’re going for ‘proper smart,’ whip out a tie or any pocket square you have to hand. Remember, button-downs can provide a punch of colour themselves or just act as a supporting piece.

Smart casual event: Keep the tie on if you like, or even whack on the braces. Short or long-sleeve button-downs look great either by themselves or with a couple of accessories here and there. Tuck for smart, untuck for dancing.

Football match: From the mods to the football casuals, the button-down is as ever-present on the terraces as it is down the bars and music venues. For an absolutely timeless look, there can be no other combination than the button-down and the Harrington jacket. Perfection.

Football match (World Cup Final): Tied around your waist, pulled over your head or thrown to the crowd and stomped on. If England wins, you can wear a button-down however you like.

Authentic Retro Classics

At Relco, we know the power of a button-down; that’s why they’re our largest collection. Long sleeve, short sleeve, checkered, floral, paisley, patterned and polka dot, we have a wide selection of shirts for a huge number of mods. Check them out.

From the 1960s to now, Sta-Prest trousers are as iconic as ever. Comfortable yet durable, simple yet versatile, these mod classics have stood the test of time while still looking fresh.

Mods toe the line between smart and casual like no one else. Tailored fits without the trip to Savile Row, looking sharp without compromising on working-class roots, clean living under difficult circumstances. These trousers put looking good within the reach of every mod.

These wrinkle-free trousers balanced style with ease, and today, we see their legacy in every piece of clothing. Invented in America and made popular on the streets of Soho, these trousers did so much more than change what’s stylish.

What Makes Sta-Prest Trousers Iconic?

Developed by Levi’s in 1964, these trousers became an instant classic on the mod scene, largely due to their sharp lines and wrinkle-resistant material. Recognisable by their famous iron-free crease, these trousers first became popular as work garments, trusted for their durability and reliable freshness.

From ‘stay pressed’ to ‘Sta-Prest’, even the name of these iconic trousers suggests speed and efficiency. Designed to be worn straight from the dryer, with no need for ironing. The classic creases come from the curing process and ensure that the trousers hold their shape through every wash.

But it’s not just the washer these trousers have outlived. Through decades of trends, cultural shifts, and evolving tastes, these trousers have remained a style staple. Even beyond fashion, we feel their legacy in the ease of modern clothing. Just think about all the times you skip the ironing because you know your clothes will hold their shape and never crinkle. That all started with this piece of clothing.

But specifically, it started in California in 1961, when a women’s sportswear manufacturer first developed and patented the permanent crease: coating with a chemical resin, pleating with a steam press, and then baking in an oven. Levi’s adopted this technique, then changed the world with their newest trousers.

Mod Fashion

Sta-Prest trousers were an instant subcultural icon. Picture a slim, tailored fit, with permanent lines that accentuate height and create a sleek silhouette. The mods quickly fell in love with these innovative trousers because of how easy they made dressing well and looking good. 

Created as workwear, but quickly adopted (as is often the case) into the world of fashion. Crafted from wool and blended fabrics, into a style that was sharp yet understated, the main power of these trousers was their versatility.

They pair with anything from t-shirts to button-downs and blazers. Mods loved them because they brought a smart sophistication to the everyday, helping them stand out on the street or the music scene. Skinheads continued the trend, cropping them at the bottom to show off their boots.

Convenience and American cool, the original Sta-Prest brought a little transatlantic flair. While simple maintenance made looking after these trousers as quick and easy as a short scooter ride.

1960s Style To Now

Blurring the lines between form and function, these trousers are remembered for helping bridge the gap between formal and everyday wear, all while combining comfort and style.

In the 1990s, Sta-Prest went through a revival, thanks largely to Levi's new campaign and a puppet called ‘Flat Eric.’ 30 years after their inception, these ads still play on the idea that Sta-Prest means easy style. While the TV ads may have been scored to techno, as opposed to The Who, one thing that’s as cool in the 90s (and today) as it was in the 60s are these trousers.

Today, Sta-Prest can also be credited for a wider choice of casual trousers beyond just jeans, with chinos owing their popularity to these stylish 60s classics. Beyond style, permanent creases changed the way we maintain our clothes. Today, the Sta-Prest legacy can be seen wherever style meets ease.

Care Guide

That’s the beauty of caring for these trousers… You don’t really need to. They’re designed to stay sharp and retain style, effortlessly, through every wash. With mod spirit still alive in these trousers, you can rely on them to stand up to hard, everyday use, all while holding their shape and sharp creases.

Sta-Prest Classics And Other Men’s Retro Trousers

At Relco, 60s style lives on. 

We design our clothes to replicate classic styles, giving mods and skinheads proper clobber that looks as good today as it did then. Made with high-quality cotton-poly blends, and according to the permanent crease procedure that’s stood the test of time, our Sta-Prest trousers, like you, are made to last.

Remember, a good pair should have:

• That strong, signature crease down both legs

• A tailored cut from the waist to the hem

• Around a 60/40 polyester, cotton blend.

Trends come and go. The Harrington jacket doesn't. Neither does the knitted polo. There’s a lot happening in menswear this year: wider fits, softer silhouettes, oversized everything. But underneath all of that, the pieces people actually reach for haven't changed much. They never really do. 

The clothes that came up from British subculture were designed to work, not to be fashionable. They were influenced by music, sport and the everyday experiences of working-class people.

Why Retro Fashion Is All Over Menswear Right Now

Oversized everything is the theme for menswear in 2026: dropped shoulders, wide fits, and loose shapes. Some of it's good. But underneath all of it, the pieces people keep reaching for are the same ones they've always reached for. Clean lines. Practical cuts. Clothes designed to last more than a season. 

The subcultures that built British style weren't interested in fashion for its own sake. It was about identity and being part of something. That instinct hasn't gone, and in 2026 it's more present than ever.

The Knitted Polo and Why It's Back

Knitted polos are everywhere in 2026. Relaxed, oversized, roomy cuts and dropped shoulders. That's one way to wear it, and it's a strong look. But there's another retro fashion trend making a comeback, too, and it's one that's been around a lot longer.

The mod scene didn't invent the knitted polo, but it made it its own. In the early sixties, London kids who'd grown up around jazz clubs and Italian tailoring took the polo and wore it the only way that made sense. Fitted, tidy, tucked in. Part of a complete look that said something specific about who you were and where you stood. By the time the skinhead scene emerged from the harder end of mod culture, the knitted polo was already a staple. It crossed over into the Two-Tone era without missing a beat.

In 2026, if you’re wearing it fitted with a pair of straight leg or sta-prest trousers and a clean pair of boots, you can’t go wrong.

The Harrington: An Everyday Staple

The Harrington has been around since the fifties. Developed in America, so completely adopted by British youth culture that it became something else entirely. When mods started wearing it in the early sixties, they weren't looking for a fashion piece. They wanted something lightweight, smart enough for a night out, practical enough for a scooter ride across London. The Harrington ticked every box.

It carried straight through into the skinhead scene, into punk, into Two-Tone. Each generation wore it for the same reasons. It fits well, and it works in every situation. In bottle green or burgundy, it pairs naturally with straight-leg trousers and boots. In tan or navy, it works just as well over a knitted polo. Throw it on and the outfit is done.

The Harrington is back in 2026, showing up across menswear as the layer of the season. Finding men's vintage clothing that holds up across six decades without needing reinvention is rare. The Harrington does it without breaking a sweat.

Straight-Leg Trousers: A Timeless Classic

The straight leg has been a constant across British subcultures for decades, and for good reason. Mods wore them tailored and precise, cut to sit just right with a Chelsea boot or a loafer. Skinheads wore them cropped higher to show the boot, practical as much as stylistic. 

Straight-leg trousers are back in 2026. Clean silhouette, works with everything, nothing to overthink. The cut hasn't changed because it never needed to. 
Pair them with a knitted polo and a Harrington, and the whole look comes together without much effort. 

Finding vintage clothing that works with straight-leg trousers is easy when you know where to look. The brands worth going to are the ones that are rooted in the subcultures that made the clothes matter in the first place.

Inspired-By Vintage Clothing Online 

Retro styling in 2026 isn't about dressing up. The Harrington, the knitted polo, the straight-leg trousers. They’re still here because they were never really about fashion in the first place. They came out of communities that needed clothes to mean something. To hold up. To say something about who was wearing them.

That's still what they do. Not because they're trending. Because they never needed to. Shop the range to find vintage-inspired clobber that's been part of the culture since day one.

You love the 60s. We love the 60s, it’s why we started Relco (though of course, when we started, the 60s were still going’). 

Born out of the music and culture of the time, the 60s mod and skinhead style came to encapsulate the attitude of the era. A loud birth of individual expression so strong and so resonant that we still recognise and celebrate it today.

But even though the look is timeless and the classics are still sharp, the world of fashion has continued to evolve. The styles changed, and weirdly, so have the sizes…

Maybe it’s just us, but do clothes not fit the way they used to? If you’re also struggling to find the perfect fit in retro clothing, whether buying new or second-hand, here’s a guide to help.

When Did The Size Guide Change?

Has this happened to you? You’re shopping online and you find a piece you like, let’s say it’s a short-sleeve button-down. You check the sizes, and you pick the one you always pick; you know, the one that’s fitted you for years. Only when the shirt arrives, you can barely button it up. In this instance, I’m afraid you’ve just become a victim of the ever-shifting size guide.

Sizes have been changing since they began. The process that started as a wartime necessity, outfiting soldiers in uniform without having to measure them individually, can’t really be perfected.

Each body is unique, and as such, standard sizes will never fully work. And if that wasn’t a problem, over time, bodies have continued to change, so much so that as soon as a new standard comes in, it can become outdated within a couple of generations. The general theme is that people are getting bigger.

The term ‘vanity sizing’ refers to yet another spanner in the works of a universal size standard. See, some clothes manufacturers felt they would appeal more to customers (mainly females) if they ‘sized down.’ The thinking being, ‘what dress will a lady choose, one that says she’s ‘large’, or one that says she’s ‘small?’’

Infuriating, we know.

How Has The Style Guide Shifted?

Size aside, the fit’s changed too. Look at the mod style, next to late-90s street style. What’s the difference?

Two people could have the same height, waistline, inseam, the works. But if they both bought one ‘standard’ size of a pair of trousers from their respective eras, the fit would be completely different.

Men’s trends tend to swing back and forth between baggy and skinny. Cast your mind back just 10 years, and you’ll remember ‘spray-on’ jeans, so named for their ultra-skinny fit and stretchy denim texture. Popular then, dated now, but inevitably in style again one day. 

This back and forth in popularity is what keeps fit and sizes shifting.

So What Was The Fit Back In The Day?

In the 60s, ‘modernists,’ or Mods, emerged in London as an aspirational subculture of young people. They dressed well as a statement against the austerity of their parents’ generation.

The fit was sharp and tailored. The lifestyle was coined by The Who’s first manager, Peter Meaden, as “clean living under difficult circumstances.” What he was referring to was the contrast between the well-fitted attire and the gritty, tough, working-class background of the people who made it popular.

While mod culture continued to grow, the ‘skinhead’ subset began to emerge. It was a look built on an ethos of traditional values and a direct return to working-class pride. At its core was a tough yet smart combination of standard shirts, jeans, braces and heavy work boots, the perfect ideal of a smart day-to-day street uniform. Iconic.

Where To Find Retro Fits, Today?

At Relco, we provide retro clothing for the online era. 

We know that nothing ever truly goes out of style. And we believe that vintage classics will always have a place in the heart of UK culture.

Our ethos for over 50 years has been to provide high-quality, tailor-made vintage & retro style clothing at an affordable price. So if you’re looking to drop a hint of nostalgia into your wardrobe, make a statement or show your individual mod spirit, we’re here to help.

How are Relco sizes different?

• Shirts: Our vintage shirt designs have a slim, tailored fit for sizes S and M and a regular fit for sizes L to 5XL.
  
• Trousers: You can refer to our size guide to see how we measure trousers, but generally, the fit is on the slimmer, more tailored side.
  
• Jackets: Harrington and bomber jackets have a higher cut, parkas have a lower cut.

How To Get Retro Clothing That Fits

If in doubt, ignore the label and focus on the measurements, and make sure you allow for 1–2 inches for ease of comfort.

So, now you know the secrets behind the size guide, this summer, you can shop our wide range of short-sleeve and polo shirts without worrying about the fit.

Sportswear wasn’t meant to be fashionable. It was kit, something to train in. British style has always had a knack for taking something practical and making it mean something more. A jacket, a pair of trainers, a polo — in the right hands, at the right moment.

That's exactly what happened with retro sportswear. What started as footy kit for the terraces quietly became one of the most enduring threads running through British identity. This is the story of how it got there.

It Started on the Terraces

The story of British sportswear as fashion begins with football in the late seventies. People followed their clubs across Europe on away days and came back with gear you just couldn’t get here at the time. Fila, Ellesse, Sergio Tacchini. Labels that meant something because not everyone had them. The casual culture was about identity. The right tracksuit top or knitted polo carried status and showed you knew your stuff.

The grit and violence that ran alongside the casual scene often overshadowed what the movement was really about: football and camaraderie. These lads knew exactly what they were doing with their clothes.

The Tracksuit Moves Off the Pitch

Through the eighties, what had started on the terraces spread outward. The track top stopped being something you only saw at a ground or on a training pitch and became a wardrobe staple for youth culture.

The appeal is easy to understand. Retro sportswear is practical, comfortable, and easy to wear. A zip-up track top over a polo shirt and a decent pair of trousers was a low-effort way to look good. The formality of the mod look had loosened up, but the instinct to look sharp hadn’t gone anywhere.

By the end of the decade, it was everywhere, worn by people who had never been near a football terrace in their lives but understood instinctively that it looked good.

Britpop & British Sportswear

If the casual scene put sportswear on the map, Britpop put it on the front pages. The nineties brought a moment when working-class culture stopped quietly filtering upward and became something the whole country was paying attention to.

Bands like Blur and Oasis were the obvious focal point. An Adidas track top and a parka wasn't a stylist's decision — it was just what they wore, and half the country wanted to wear it too. Blur came at it from a different angle, more art school than terrace, but the instinct was the same.

1990s Britpop fashion drew on everyday British clothing worn by ordinary people. Pulp, The Verve, Cast. The whole scene had a visual language built around clothes that weren't trying too hard, even when the people wearing them clearly were. Sportswear sat right at the centre of that, because it carried the right references. It said something about where you were from and what you were into without needing to spell it out.

The magazines picked up on it, the high street followed, and for a few years in the mid-nineties, retro sportswear wasn't a subculture anymore. It was just fashion.

The Retro Polo Shirt

Running through the whole story, from the terraces to Britpop and beyond, is the polo shirt. It’s worth giving it its own mention because it’s done more work than almost any other single garment in British subcultural style.

Fred Perry started as a tennis brand, worn at Wimbledon and built around performance. Mods picked it up in the sixties because the clean collar and neat fit slotted perfectly into their sharper aesthetic. From there, it moved into skinhead culture, where it became a genuine staple. The casual scene wore retro polo shirts under track tops, the label and the laurel wreath visible at the collar — a quiet signal to anyone who knew what they were looking at. Britpop brought them back into focus again, this time on record sleeves and magazine covers as much as on the street.

What's remarkable is how the garment survived each transition with its credibility intact. Few pieces have crossed that many subcultural boundaries, absorbed that many different meanings, and still come out looking right. The retro polo shirt is one of the most loaded items in the British wardrobe, and it got there by being genuinely useful to every scene that adopted it.

Retro Sportswear — Still Going Strong

Retro sportswear hasn’t faded because it wasn’t just about sport. It was about identity, community, fashion and music. The lads on the terraces in 1982 weren’t thinking about fashion week, but they did know about trends.

The same gear that worked then works now for the same reasons. It’s practical, rooted in British culture, with influences from music and footy.

The Relco range reflects the history. Inspired by the love of the game and seventies casual culture, our retro track tops and polos are a nod to that era.

British workwear didn't mess around. It was designed to hold up on a building site, keep the cold out on a factory floor, and survive the kind of daily punishment that most clothes wouldn't last a week under.

The lasting appeal of British workwear from its tough beginnings on the job site to its adoption by subcultures shows the enduring power of honest, functional design. When something’s built right, it stands out, no matter where it's worn.

This story traces the roots of vintage British workwear to reveal why its blend of purpose and design is still relevant today.

CC41 and the Wartime Roots of Utility Clothing

The CC41 mark, two interlocking Cs with the number 41 between them, first appeared on British clothing in 1941. It stood for Civilian Clothing, introduced under the wartime Utility Clothing Scheme as a response to rationing and material shortages. The government needed to cut fabric use without leaving people without decent clothes, so strict design standards were brought in. No excess, no unnecessary detailing, nothing that didn't serve a function.

What came out of it was some of the most well-constructed, practical clothing Britain had produced. CC41 clothing had to meet quality standards as well as material restrictions, which meant the stuff that got made was genuinely built to last. Buttons were limited, linings were kept simple, and silhouettes were clean by necessity rather than choice.

The scheme ran until 1952, but its influence on British clothing design carried on well past that. A generation of designers and manufacturers had learned to work with less and produce better, and that lesson didn't get forgotten overnight.

The British Donkey Jacket

If there's one garment that sums up British working life, it's the donkey jacket. Heavy wool and polyester blend, wide shoulders, that distinctive PVC or leather panel across the back and shoulders to take the wear. It was standard issue on construction sites, worn by miners, road workers, and public sector workers up and down the country.

The name's origin isn't entirely settled, but the most obvious explanation ties it to donkey work, the hard graft it was built for. It did its job without fuss, which is exactly what the people wearing it were doing.

What nobody planned for was the crossover. By the late sixties and into the seventies, the donkey jacket had moved from the work site to the street. Skinheads wore them. Punks wore them. Activists wore them. It became a symbol of working-class identity that sat just as comfortably at a protest or a gig as it did on a building site. That kind of cultural reach only happens when you've got solid, no-nonsense design.

Derby Tweed and the Working Cloth

Derby tweed history is rooted in practicality rather than prestige, which is a large part of why it's lasted. It was a staple for jackets, flat caps, and work trousers across rural and working Britain for generations. No one wore it to make a statement. They wore it because it did the job.

Derby tweed has never been glamorous and has never tried to be. It's a hardwearing woollen cloth with a plain, open weave, produced primarily for outdoor and working use. Durable, weatherproof to a reasonable degree, and unpretentious in the way that fabrics made for function tend to be.

Sta-Prest and the Crossover Into Subculture

Sta-Prest clothing came out of America in the early sixties, a Levi's product that built a following fast. Built around a permanent press fabric that held its crease without ironing. For working people who wanted to look sharp on a night out without spending half the evening with an ironing board, that was a proper selling point.

Mods picked them up early. Skinheads made them a staple. The appeal was obvious. Sta-Prest clothing was low maintenance, clean-lined, and worked well with a button-down shirt and a decent pair of shoes.

The connection between workwear practicality and subcultural style came from everyday people who wanted clothes that functioned properly and still looked decent. Sta-Prest just happened to arrive at exactly the right moment for a scene that understood that instinctively.

Good Gear for Everyday Wear

None of this clothing was designed with longevity in mind. It was designed to be worn hard and replaced when it gave out. The fact that vintage British workwear is still talked about, still worn, and still influencing what gets made today comes down to one thing: it was built to serve a purpose, not a trend.

Function first, everything else second. That's the logic Relco's always worked from. The range carries the same thinking. Practical, rooted in real British subculture, and made to be worn properly.

If this is the kind of clothing that means something to you, whether you’re on the lookout for a British donkey jacket or Sta-Prest trousers, the Relco men's vintage clothing range is worth a look. Gear with proper heritage behind it, built for people who know the difference.

Look, good clobber isn’t cheap. Whether you’ve got a Harrington hanging by the door, a drawer full of knitted polos, or a stack of check shirts you’re dead proud of, you want them to last. The thing is, most people know how to buy decent gear. Not everyone knows how to look after it.

Here’s what you need to know.

Know What You’re Working With Before You Wash

Before you even think about throwing something in the machine, check the label. It sounds obvious, but half the damage done to good clothes comes from someone skipping this step.

Knowing how to wash delicate fabrics starts with understanding what you’re dealing with. Knitted polos, especially anything with wool or a wool blend, will shrink fast if they get too hot. Cotton knits are more forgiving, but still need a gentle hand.

Woven shirts in bold checks or paisley patterns can bleed colour if the water’s too warm or the cycle’s too rough. Your Harrington’s got an outer shell and a lining, and both need to be thought about separately.

The label isn’t there to annoy you, we promise. Read it. Follow it. 

Dry Cleaner vs Washing Machine: Does It Even Matter?

Not everything needs to go to the dry cleaner, but some things really shouldn’t go near your washing machine.

Head to the dry cleaner for Harrington jackets with zips or inner linings, and for anything wool-heavy that you can’t risk shrinking. The same applies to tailored trousers, whether pinstripe, dogtooth, or tweed, where the structure of the fabric needs protecting. If you’re not sure, that’s a sign to take it in rather than chance it.

For cotton shirts, whether check, paisley, or plain, a gentle machine cycle is fine. Turn them inside out and keep the temperature down to keep them looking good. The same goes for light cotton knitwear and denim. 

How To Wash Delicate Fabrics

To keep delicate items in good nick, use cold water and always turn the garment inside out before washing. If you’ve got a mesh laundry bag, use it for knitwear and finer shirts. This prevents pilling and visible wear and tear. Keep it on a gentle or delicate cycle and use a mild detergent.

Skip the tumble dryer. Seriously. Heat ruins the shape and fabric faster than almost anything else. Knitwear should be dried flat on a clean towel so it holds its shape, and shirts can go on a hanger once most of the water’s out. 

Between Washes: What Actually Works

You don’t need to wash clothing every time you wear it. Airing a jacket or a polo out overnight does the job for light wear and puts less stress on the fabric over time. Spot-treat small marks rather than throwing the whole thing in the machine. A damp cloth and a bit of patience sort out most minor spills before they become stains.

Rotate what you wear and check your gear every now and then, buttons, zips, seams. Small fixes done early stop bigger problems later.

How To Store Clothes Long Term the Right Way

If you’ve got this far, you’ve smashed it. This is where most people slip up. You can wash something perfectly but store it badly and still end up in a pickle.

First Rule: Never Store Dirty Clothes

Even if something looks clean, body oils and light marks will set over time and become a proper nightmare to shift. Give everything a wash before it goes away for the season.

Fold Your Knitwear — Don’t Hang It

Hanging pulls the shoulders out of shape over time, and you’ll end up with a stretched-out collar. For shirts, do the opposite and hang them on decent hangers so they don’t crease.

Don’t Bother With Plastic

Plastic bags and airtight containers are a bad idea for long-term storage. They trap moisture, and that leads to mildew. Use breathable garment bags instead, or just fold things neatly in a drawer with a bit of space around them.

Keep Clothes Dry and Away From Direct Sunlight

Light fades colours over time, even on darker garments. A wardrobe or a chest of drawers is ideal. If you’re rotating seasonally, give everything a proper check before putting it back in storage and address any issues before they get worse.

What To Do When Something Goes Wrong

Even with the best intentions, things happen. A zip sticks, a seam comes loose, a button goes missing. The mistake most people make is leaving it. Small problems left alone become bigger ones, and a garment that could’ve been sorted with five minutes and a needle and thread ends up unwearable.

Keep a basic repair kit to hand. Needles, thread in a few standard colours, spare buttons. If a seam starts to go, sort it before it splits further. If a zip starts catching, a bit of beeswax along the teeth usually does the job. For anything more serious, a good tailor or alterations service can help. Good for your pocket and the planet.

Gear Made To Last

Our clothes go the distance. The same styles that have been part of mod, ska, and street culture for decades aren’t going out of fashion any time soon. Look after them properly, and they won’t let you down.

Now you know how to store clothes long term, shop the range and get kitted out with retro-inspired pieces you’ll want to take care of.

Jackets come and go, trends change, but the Harrington is here to stay. Originally designed for golfers, it's been knocking about since the late fifties, picked up by mods and skinheads, worn by Britpop icons and pretty much every British subculture.

Weather-resistant, timeless, and easy to style, the Harrington is the ultimate jacket and works just as well in a pub garden as a formal event.  Check out this Harrington jacket style guide to find out why it deserves a spot in your wardrobe.

Where the Harrington Jacket Comes From

The Harrington goes all the way back to the 30s. The basic design, a lightweight blouson with a zip front, ribbed collar, cuffs and hem, and that distinctive tartan lining, was around before it had a name.

The first Harrington to hit the mainstream was the Baracuta G9, designed in 1937 by John and Isaac Miller. Eventually, they got permission to add the iconic red Fraser Tartan to the lining, creating the jacket we know and love today.

The name itself is widely credited to the character Rodney Harrington from the American TV series Peyton Place, who regularly wore the style. But it was Britain where the jacket really found its feet. Mods adopted it early on. It was stylish enough to fit the scene, practical enough to actually wear, and it sat right over a knitted polo or a button-down shirt without ruining the outfit. Every generation that's found it since has kept it and made it their own.

One of the Best Men's Lightweight Jackets You Can Own

British weather is unpredictable. A light drizzle, a bit of wind, and that awkward in-between temperature that's too warm for a proper coat and too cold for a polo tee. The Harrington was made for this.

As jackets go, it's hard to beat for practicality. It's not bulky. It doesn't add unnecessary weight and folds down small enough to stuff in a bag if the sun comes out for five minutes. The zip fastens properly, the collar sits flat, and the fit stays clean.

It works as a standalone jacket through spring and autumn and layers well under heavier jackets in the winter. You really can’t go wrong.

Classic Colours

The classic colourways are black, navy, and bottle green. All three are straightforward to style and work with most outfits. Black is the most versatile if you're only buying one. Navy sits slightly softer and suits lighter trousers well; it’s a good choice if you’re wearing to a more formal event. Bottle green has a bit more character to it and works well in autumn.

Whatever the outer colour, the tartan lining is part of the identity. It's not decorative but part of what makes a Harrington a classic and it's been that way since the start.

How To Look After Your Harrington

Check the label before washing, as the shell and lining may have different care requirements. Most will do fine on a cool, gentle machine cycle, but if yours has got any significant hardware or a more complex lining, take it to the dry cleaner rather than risk it.

Don't tumble dry it. Let it air naturally on a hanger. Store it hung up so the shape stays intact, and if it's going away for a while, use a breathable garment bag rather than a plastic one. The Harrington is a practical jacket. Treat it well, and it’ll last a long time. 

Classic Jackets for Men That Fit Every Look

What makes the Harrington stand out is how much ground it covers without trying too hard.

Wear it over a knitted polo with straight-leg trousers and a pair of loafers, and you've got a proper mod look that doesn't need anything else. Throw it over a plain white tee and jeans, and it's casual without being sloppy. Layer it over a check or paisley shirt with the collar out, and you've got something smarter.

The jacket fits around your lifestyle and is comfortable for all-day wear. That kind of versatility is rare, and it's a big part of why the Harrington has never really needed reinventing. The original formula just works.

Ninety Years On and Still One of the Best Jackets for Men

The Harrington jacket isn't part of the trend cycle. Its legacy has carried across decades and subcultures because it was well-designed right from the beginning, and nothing about that has changed. It's practical, it's got real cultural heritage behind it, and it looks good.

Our Harrington jackets are rooted in the same tradition that made the jacket a British staple in the first place. Proper fit, proper lining, made to be worn regularly and last well.

Shop the Harrington range and get a jacket that'll see you right for years.

Fast fashion is designed to be replaced. That’s not a cynical read of the industry; it’s just how the model works. The price is low upfront because the lifespan is short.

Heritage clothing was built to last. The goal was to make something that held up to years of real wear, could be repaired rather than discarded, and didn’t need to be rethought every six months to stay relevant. That’s why retro clothing lasts as long as it does. 

What Makes Retro Clothing So Special

Start with the construction. Heritage clothing is built from heavy natural fabrics: wool blends, dense cottons, materials with genuine weight that hold their shape across years of washing and wearing rather than losing it after a month or two. The stitching is tighter. The seams are reinforced. The details, such as collars, cuffs, fastenings, and buttons, are built for regular wear, not just a few outings or a single event.

Beyond the materials, the designs have been refined over decades. A Harrington jacket or a knitted polo isn’t just a product of a six-week design cycle chasing this season's trend. It’s been worn, adjusted, and worn again across generations. Each iteration, a small improvement. The kind of process that produces something you can actually trust and that can withstand being repaired a handful of times.

Heritage clothing does cost more upfront, but don’t let that put you off. It costs more to make things that fit well and last a long time, but you’ll make a saving in the long run. 

Retro Clothes Were Built for Real Life

The donkey jacket was built for construction sites. The Harrington jacket was refined for golfers to keep them dry and leave room for movement. These small tweaks made it perfect for getting around a city. The knitted polo was for people who needed to look sharp without the clothes getting in the way.

The fact that they are still being worn decades later, still relevant, is proof of concept. People want honest clothes that look good and stand the test of time. Always have.

Why British Retro Clothing Is Different

British weather is unpredictable — one minute it is chucking it down, the next it is the hottest day of the year. Clothing that can handle that has to be durable and made from high-quality materials. British retro clothes go beyond build quality. They were designed to be versatile, something that still rings true today. 

The cultural part matters just as much as the practical. British subcultural styles, from mod and skinhead to casual and Britpop, were worn by people who valued identity and community.  They wanted to belong. Your clothes said something about who you were and where you stood without having to explain it to anyone.

Clothes with that kind of meaning behind them don’t get thrown out. They get passed on. That is why British retro clothing has stood the test of time and why you see the same key items pop up over the years. 

Heritage Clothing: Worth the Investment

A cheap fast-fashion jacket might cost a third as much as a well-made heritage piece. If it lasts two years before the zip fails, the lining tears, or the fabric pills beyond saving, and the heritage piece lasts ten, that upfront saving doesn’t look so good. Fewer replacements. Less waste. More wear.

Fast fashion also dates itself. Trend-driven clothes look great for one season and completely out of place the next. This isn’t the case for many classic styles. It was never about chasing a trend to begin with. The same silhouette and structure that worked in 1965 still works now and will likely work in the next 50 years, too.

Always Check the Label

Clothes only last if you treat them right, so check the labels before washing to get the most out of your threads. Keep knitwear out of the tumble dryer to prevent shrinking and mend any rips or loose seams before they become a bigger problem. If in doubt, take it to a tailor or alteration specialist.

A well-made garment, properly cared for, will hold its shape, colour, and character for years. That’s what heritage is all about.

Designed To Go the Distance

Our range is built on the same principles that made retro clothes what they are today. Retro-inspired designs with deep roots, quality materials, and proper cuts. 

Whether you’re after some knitwear, a classic Harrington or a vintage-inspired shirt, we’ve got just the thing to complete your look.