The History of the Monkey Jacket
For a long time, the monkey jacket has been associated as a standout piece of clothing in Mod fashion and celebrated for its comfortable, sleek design and practicality. However, its beginnings can be traced way back to the 19th century when it was still a staple among sailors. Transcending its original purpose, finding its way to mainstream fashion and eventually becoming a hallmark of the 1960s subculture, the path and history of the monkey jacket has been a long one.
In this article, our team at Relco London would like to turn your attention to the history of this piece, a favourite among vintage and contemporary circles alike, and help you learn more about how, with its timeless appeal and versatility, the 1960s staple has made its way to today's fashion, resonating with people across generations.
Born at Sea: The Nautical Origins
Beginning in the 19th century, the history of this fashion staple can be traced back to the sea. Early records describe it as a practical garment for sailors, whose life at sea demanded clothing that could withstand harsh weather conditions and everyday wear. The monkey jacket answered these needs as it was made to be highly durable, from heavy wool that provided warmth and protection against wind and spray.
A Durable Design
The design was easily distinguishable with its cropped silhouette, broad collar, double-breasted, waist-length roundabout style. It allowed sailors to move freely and climb rigging or perform other demanding physical tasks aboard ships. At the same time, it provided a snug fit without bulk, staying secure even when turbulent conditions arose.
Utilitarian Beginning
Beyond functionality, the jacket offered sailors a level of comfort, and together with its clean-cut silhouette, it soon became a symbol of practicality and reliability. This utilitarian beginning laid the foundation for the jacket's transition from a sailor's monkey jacket to the Mod monkey jacket we are more accustomed to seeing today.
Name Origins
Contrary to popular belief, it was not named a 'monkey’ jacket because the sailors climbed riggings like monkeys. Its name comes after the monkeys who wore tight, close-fitting jackets as they accompanied organ grinders in the early 1800s.
Transition to Civilian Wear
It was in the early 20th century that the monkey jacket made its way from the decks of ships to the streets and mainstream fashion. The practicality it was already famous for, together with its rugged charm, appealed to ordinary people, especially among the working class, who valued garments that were comfortable, durable and versatile.
As the industrial era progressed, the monkey jacket became a staple for labourers and tradespeople in big cities like London, Manchester and Birmingham. Already built for demanding physical jobs, its straightforward design kept it affordable and accessible to the working class. For many, it became the everyday jacket that could withstand the rigours of work without sacrificing comfort and mobility.
The monkey jacket's growing popularity among civilians marked the beginning of its evolution from a purely utilitarian piece to a cultural icon, eventually paving the way for its adoption by the stylish mod movement of the 1960s.
Adoption by the Mod Subculture
In the 1960s, the mod subculture emerged in Britain as a youth movement defined by dedication to sharp, edgy style, modernity and individuality. Mods rejected traditional fashion, favouring tailored clothing that reflected their forward-thinking ethos. Their aesthetic, of course, extended beyond clothing to include music, scooters, and vibrant nightlife, creating a cultural identity that celebrated urban living and self-expression.
The monkey jacket for men was a natural fit for this cultural climate and the mod wardrobe. Its clean, streamlined design complemented the vintage trousers, button-down shirts, and polished loafers, all part of the mod style. Its lightweight construction, snug fit, and cropped design also made it a practical choice for those who enjoy scooter rides - that essential aspect of mod culture.
Mods didn't just adopt the monkey jacket—they reimagined it. Originally coming in subdued, utilitarian colours like navy and black, mods infused it with their characteristic sense of individuality. They added bright colours, bold patterns, and unique accents like patches or embroidery that allowed for personalisation.
And just like this, the monkey jacket was transformed from a purely functional garment into an iconic statement piece, symbolising the energy and innovation of the mod movement.
Key Features of the Men's Monkey Jacket in Mod Fashion
More than just a statement, the monkey jacket's design elements perfectly complement the mod aesthetic and lifestyle as a whole. Its elastic hem and cuffs provide that snug, tailored fit that pairs easily with slim trousers, while the front zipper adds a minimalistic touch that enhances the sleek appearance and offers practicality for fast-paced urban living. Finally, the lightweight material of modern monkey jackets made it perfect for layering without bulk and ideal for mild weather. With these features emphasising utility and modern style, the jacket easily embodied the mod culture.
Cultural Impact and Enduring Legacy
Now a symbol of mod fashion, the monkey jacket has cemented its role as part of the mod ideals of the 1960s. It started to be frequently featured in media and pop culture associated with the mod scene, such as films, music videos, and images of iconic bands like The Who. The timeless appeal it carries has influenced fashion since, inspiring retro revivals and being embraced by other subcultures like Britpop and contemporary vintage fans.
Its ability to remain functional and stylish throughout time lies in its enduring legacy and is what has made it a testament to practicality and cultural iconicity.
The Monkey Jacket Today
Today, the monkey jacket remains popular in retro and vintage fashion, with modern reinterpretations inspired by its classic design and contemporary materials. Famous brands have reissued updated versions, often using nylon or bold colours to keep it relevant to the modern consumer.
The monkey jacket’s ability to transcend time and trend has solidified its place as a timeless piece in both contemporary and retro fashion.
The Monkey Jacket: A Timeless Legacy
From its beginnings on the turbulent seas in the 19th century to its transformation into a cultural symbol of urban living in the 1960s mod movement, the monkey jacket has evolved with the times without ever losing its significance. Nowadays, its timeless appeal continues to resonate with young fashion enthusiasts, bridging past and present into a blend of style and practicality.
A historical artefact and a modern wardrobe icon, the monkey jacket will always hold a special place in fashion history.
Feeling inspired? Check out our monkey jackets for men and bring a piece of history to your wardrobe.