How to Find the Perfect Fit in Retro Clothing

You love the 60s. We love the 60s, it’s why we started Relco (though of course, when we started, the 60s were still going’). 

Born out of the music and culture of the time, the 60s mod and skinhead style came to encapsulate the attitude of the era. A loud birth of individual expression so strong and so resonant that we still recognise and celebrate it today.

But even though the look is timeless and the classics are still sharp, the world of fashion has continued to evolve. The styles changed, and weirdly, so have the sizes…

Maybe it’s just us, but do clothes not fit the way they used to? If you’re also struggling to find the perfect fit in retro clothing, whether buying new or second-hand, here’s a guide to help.

When Did The Size Guide Change?

Has this happened to you? You’re shopping online and you find a piece you like, let’s say it’s a short-sleeve button-down. You check the sizes, and you pick the one you always pick; you know, the one that’s fitted you for years. Only when the shirt arrives, you can barely button it up. In this instance, I’m afraid you’ve just become a victim of the ever-shifting size guide.

Sizes have been changing since they began. The process that started as a wartime necessity, outfiting soldiers in uniform without having to measure them individually, can’t really be perfected.

Each body is unique, and as such, standard sizes will never fully work. And if that wasn’t a problem, over time, bodies have continued to change, so much so that as soon as a new standard comes in, it can become outdated within a couple of generations. The general theme is that people are getting bigger.

The term ‘vanity sizing’ refers to yet another spanner in the works of a universal size standard. See, some clothes manufacturers felt they would appeal more to customers (mainly females) if they ‘sized down.’ The thinking being, ‘what dress will a lady choose, one that says she’s ‘large’, or one that says she’s ‘small?’’

Infuriating, we know.

How Has The Style Guide Shifted?

Size aside, the fit’s changed too. Look at the mod style, next to late-90s street style. What’s the difference?

Two people could have the same height, waistline, inseam, the works. But if they both bought one ‘standard’ size of a pair of trousers from their respective eras, the fit would be completely different.

Men’s trends tend to swing back and forth between baggy and skinny. Cast your mind back just 10 years, and you’ll remember ‘spray-on’ jeans, so named for their ultra-skinny fit and stretchy denim texture. Popular then, dated now, but inevitably in style again one day. 

This back and forth in popularity is what keeps fit and sizes shifting.

So What Was The Fit Back In The Day?

In the 60s, ‘modernists,’ or Mods, emerged in London as an aspirational subculture of young people. They dressed well as a statement against the austerity of their parents’ generation.

The fit was sharp and tailored. The lifestyle was coined by The Who’s first manager, Peter Meaden, as “clean living under difficult circumstances.” What he was referring to was the contrast between the well-fitted attire and the gritty, tough, working-class background of the people who made it popular.

While mod culture continued to grow, the ‘skinhead’ subset began to emerge. It was a look built on an ethos of traditional values and a direct return to working-class pride. At its core was a tough yet smart combination of standard shirts, jeans, braces and heavy work boots, the perfect ideal of a smart day-to-day street uniform. Iconic.

Where To Find Retro Fits, Today?

At Relco, we provide retro clothing for the online era. 

We know that nothing ever truly goes out of style. And we believe that vintage classics will always have a place in the heart of UK culture.

Our ethos for over 50 years has been to provide high-quality, tailor-made vintage & retro style clothing at an affordable price. So if you’re looking to drop a hint of nostalgia into your wardrobe, make a statement or show your individual mod spirit, we’re here to help.

How are Relco sizes different?

• Shirts: Our vintage shirt designs have a slim, tailored fit for sizes S and M and a regular fit for sizes L to 5XL.
  
• Trousers: You can refer to our size guide to see how we measure trousers, but generally, the fit is on the slimmer, more tailored side.
  
• Jackets: Harrington and bomber jackets have a higher cut, parkas have a lower cut.

How To Get Retro Clothing That Fits

If in doubt, ignore the label and focus on the measurements, and make sure you allow for 1–2 inches for ease of comfort.

So, now you know the secrets behind the size guide, this summer, you can shop our wide range of short-sleeve and polo shirts without worrying about the fit.