The Button-Down Shirt and the Birth of Clean-Cut Mod Style
Clean-cut style without the hassle. This is what the button-down shirt brought to the mod scene.
A button-down is any shirt where you can ‘button down’ the collar of the shirt to the shirt itself. They come in short and long-sleeved versions, and they’ve been a symbol of effortless cool in the UK ever since the mods got their hands on them.
However, when these shirts arrived in the 1960s, they were not a new garment like Sta Prest trousers; in fact, their creation predates even the bomber jacket, first popularised in World War I. The button-down was first worn by English polo players in the late 19th Century, shortly before it was made popular by an American clothing manufacturer, and long before it arrived back in London.
A versatile piece of clothing that marked an instant shift in fashion standards while continuing to assert its ongoing cultural impact, the button-down is an important piece of fashion history and a mainstay in any mod's wardrobe.
What Is a Button-Down?
A button-down is any shirt where the points of the collar can be ‘buttoned down’ to the body of the shirt. They are an incredibly versatile piece of clothing, used for smart, casual, and smart-casual occasions, and for anything else in between. They come in a huge range of fabrics and styles, and were originally enjoyed for their ease of use.
Before button-down collars, collars were detachable from the shirt. Sounds weird, but people did this so they could starch the collar to help it hold its shape, then wash it separately. Although starching did give older collars some rigidity, the drawback was that they were incredibly rough and uncomfortable. Also, the time it took to detach and re-attach the collar really detracted from its ‘convenience.’
Today, detachable collars are a relic of the past, used mainly in antique formal wear, by members of the clergy, and law professionals – you know, the people who also wear those silly wigs. The button-down, on the other hand, despite being well over 100 years old, is still a hugely popular garment.
Who Invented The Button-Down Shirt
The button-down was born on horseback, though technically, it was the ponies. What we mean by this is that button-down shirts began as a specialist garment, made to order for the polo players of London’s prestigious Hurlingham Club. Players were tired of the collars flapping in the wind and asked their tailors to sew buttons in order to secure them.
This caught the eye of American John Brooks, of Brooks Brothers, an industrial clothing manufacturer based in New York. He took the idea back to the USA shortly before Brooks Brothers began manufacturing button-down shirts at scale. These were an instant success, finding huge popularity amongst the elite schools of America’s East Coast, namely Princeton University.
60s Mod Fashion And Everyone Else
The button-down was seen as casual when it first came on the scene. Though compared to the stiff, starchy, detachable collars that were the norm back then, that was probably the case for most new pieces.
USA and the East Coast
A cornerstone of that preppy, Ivy League style, the button-down shirt was hugely popular within the elite spaces of East Coast, New England schools and universities. Students were inspired by the young Prince of Wales, Prince Edward, who, in turn, was inspired by more relaxed American attire. The button-down erred on the side of comfort, while still looking good with a jacket.
The UK mods and skinheads
The button-down was destined to be big on the mod scene. Not only for its ease and versatility, but because, at their core, the button-down and the mod shared a foundational essence: the ability to switch up between smart, sharp, and incredibly well-cut, while also remaining both comfortable and functional.
Clean, sharp and modern. Smart, but never sterile, these shirts helped England’s youth stand apart from the generations that came before them, their parents, who saw fashion as frivolity. Although simple, these shirts could offer so much more range when it came to style and fit. They allowed for the mod ideal of self-expression.
How To Style Men’s Button-Down Shirts
The strength of this piece of clothing comes from its versatility. You can wear the long-sleeve version under a jacket or by itself, rolled up or buttoned. If it’s hot outside, or you’re too tough to feel the cold, you can also opt for the short-sleeve version.
These shirts also come in a frankly ridiculous number of styles, patterns, and materials. So no matter the occasion, there’s a button-down and styling option that’ll work for you.
Office work: Depending on where you work, a button-down and a blazer is a safe bet for a sharp, elevated look. If you’re going for ‘proper smart,’ whip out a tie or any pocket square you have to hand. Remember, button-downs can provide a punch of colour themselves or just act as a supporting piece.
Smart casual event: Keep the tie on if you like, or even whack on the braces. Short or long-sleeve button-downs look great either by themselves or with a couple of accessories here and there. Tuck for smart, untuck for dancing.
Football match: From the mods to the football casuals, the button-down is as ever-present on the terraces as it is down the bars and music venues. For an absolutely timeless look, there can be no other combination than the button-down and the Harrington jacket. Perfection.
Football match (World Cup Final): Tied around your waist, pulled over your head or thrown to the crowd and stomped on. If England wins, you can wear a button-down however you like.
Authentic Retro Classics
At Relco, we know the power of a button-down; that’s why they’re our largest collection. Long sleeve, short sleeve, checkered, floral, paisley, patterned and polka dot, we have a wide selection of shirts for a huge number of mods. Check them out.